Historical Australian Towns: Wilcannia, NSW: Queen City of the West

Located on the Darling River, Wilcannia is located in northwestern NSW, 948 km northwest of Sydney.

Wilcannia has many Aboriginal cultural places and sites to explore. The town is also one of the best-preserved historic towns in Australia and was once an important inland port.

Barkandji Aboriginal People

The Barkandji people, meaning "River people", are traditional owners of the land that includes Wilcannia.

An important creator deity for the Barkandji people is Ngaty the rainbow serpent, the rainbow and a god.

The Rainbow Serpent, according to Barkandji culture, lives in water holes (Ngatyi yapara) and these places should be avoided.

Ngaty created the landscape, including mountains and gorges, as it moved about the landscape. Ngaty is also the rainbow, a bridge between the water and the sky.

The Barkandji were divided into two matrilineal moieties (through mother's line), named Makwara and Kilpara (Mathews 1898). All marriages would take place between members of opposite moietiy. It is an exogamous clan system with only two clans.

The totem (“Meats”) of Makwara are the Eaglehawk, while Kilpara had a special relationship with the Crow (Elkin, 1930). The word for totem, wanga, means “one flesh”.

However, Marriage rules were further complicated, as Hero Black (at Bourke) expressed in 1945. The Kilpara (Crow) was afflicted with emu, black duck, crow, black kangaroo etc. And the Makwara (Eaglehawk) with red kangaroo, eagle, pelican, teal duck etc.

"....a sand goanna man and could marry a bandicoot or [red] kangaroo woman, an emu man could marry a [red] kangaroo, but not a bandicoot woman” (Reay 1945).

According to Robert Brough Smyth, conflict waged between the rival powers of the Crow and the Eaglehawk for some time. A song about this is: "Strike the Crow on the knee; I will spear his father." (1.)

NATIVE AUSTRALIANS. Image from page 408 of "Ridpath's history of the world; being an account of the ethnic origin, primitive estate, early migrations, social conditions and present promise of the principal families of men .." (1897)

The story about how death first occurred: The first created man and woman were told not to go near a certain tree in which a Bat (Bon-nel-ya) lived. The Bat was not to be disturbed. One day, however, the woman (Nonga) was gathering firewood, and she went near the tree in which the Bat lived. The Bat flew away, and after that came death. Many amongst the Aborigines died after that.[8]

Wilcannia's Mission Camps and cultural places have been gazetted. These places include: canoe trees, coolamon trees, a mound site, middens, artefacts, heat retainer ovens, and material remains of camping places from the 1920s to 1980s, as well as fishing places and the Ngatji (rainbow serpent) waterhole.

Aboriginal man, N.S.W, A TRIP TO THE DARLING. Image from page 134 of "Pages from the journal of a Queensland squatter" (1901)

NATIVE AUSTRALIAN FROM THE DARLING RIVER (HEADDRESS OF FEATHERS). Image from page 408 of "Ridpath's history of the world; being an account of the ethnic origin, primitive estate, early migrations, social conditions and present promise of the principal families of men .." (1897)

One canoe tree has the scar of a canoe cut out of the bark by Granny Moysey about 100 years ago.

1800s

In January 1830, Captain Charles Sturt reached the confluence of the Darling and Murray Rivers.

In 1835, explorer Major Thomas Mitchell was the first European to reach the Wilcannia region. The area was named Mount Murchison.

Engraving of Major Sir Thomas Mitchell

Mitchell called the Aboriginal people of the region, "The Spitting Tribe". He wrote:

"The manner and disposition of these people, were so unlike those of the aborigines in general, that I hoped they might be an exception to the general character of the natives we were to meet with: an evil disposed tribe perhaps, at war with all around them. The difference in disposition between tribes not very remote from each other was often striking. We had left, at only three days’ journey behind us, natives as kind and civil as any I had met with; and I was rather at a loss now to understand, how they could exist so near fiends like these." Read here

By the 1840s pastoralists had settled in the region.

The pastoral property, Mt Murchison run, extended to Woytchugga Creek, where it joined Culpaulin and included Woytchugga lake (moonshape lake). Moorabin was the area now known
as the Wilcannia Common. (2.)

The discovery of gold in 1851 was the impetus for steamers to begin operating on the Murray-Darling river systems. The first paddle steamers began navigating the Murray-Darling river system from 1853. However, the steamers reached the pastoral station, Mount Murchison, now the site of Wilcannia in 1859.

The township of Wilcannia was proclaimed in June 1866.

Southern Argus (Port Elliot, SA : 1866 - 1954), Saturday 27 June 1868

Evening Journal (Adelaide, SA : 1869 - 1912), Thursday 18 March 1869

In 1887, some 218 steamers and barges had loaded or unloaded on the waterfront at Wilcannia.

The Commercial Banking Company of Sydney opened at Wilcannia.

In 1868 the population was 150. And as well as the bank, there was a courthouse, with lock-up, three public houses, three or four stores, a brewery, bakery, two butchers, two blacksmiths, a wool scour and a cordial factory.

The first pub was called Five Alls Hotel, built by Mrs George. The name come from Britain where pub names traditionally had pictures to represent them as most people could not read. The Five Alls were a sign of five representative figures:

The clergyman: "I pray for all."
The Lawyer: "I plead for all."
The Doctor: "I heal all."
The Soldier: "I fight for all."
The Farmer: "I pay for all."

1870s

Wilcannia's first newspaper was the Wilcannia Times, a bi-weekly founded in 1873 by William Webb.

The Five Alls Hotel was replaced by the Wilcannia Club Hotel in 1879.

The Post Office was built in 1879.

During the 1870s Wilcannia became Australia’s third largest inland port (after Sydney and Morpeth).

A punt for livestock was built by a German man, at the end of Cleaton Street.

Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Saturday 7 June 1879

1880s

Australian Aborigines, ca. 1870-1880 / Henry King, Darling River fish traps, SLNSW

THE WILCANNIA PUNT CARRYING SHEEP ACROSS THE DARLING IN 1880. Sydney Mail

In 1880 the town had a population of 3000 with 13 hotels.

Mt. Brown rush occurred, and Wilcannia had one of its most successful periods.

The Wilcannia Athenaeum was built in 1883, by Mr De Baun, on land originally granted as the site for the “Wilcannia Mechanics Institute” in 1879.

Bullock teams at Wilcannia, Darling River, New South Wales, 1886, National Library of Australia

The water tower and waterworks at Wilcannia on the Darling River, New South Wales, 1886, National Library of Australia

The hospital at Wilcannia, New South Wales, 1886, National Library of Australia

1890s

Wilcannia became an important river port and service centre for the White Cliffs, and other mining fields. There were about 90 steamers using the river.

Australian Star (Sydney, NSW : 1887 - 1909), Tuesday 24 November 1891

In the early nineties, Mr Resch (of Resch's Beer) lived at Wilcannia and had a brewery there.

A. Loading Wharf, Wilcannia, 2. Municipal Council Chambers and Free Library. 3. The Hospital. 4. Toy's Hotel. 5. Camel and Driver. 6. View of Wilcannia from opposite side of River Darling. 7. The Punt. 8. Street View, Wilcannia. 9. Church of England. 10. Post and Telegraph Offices and Postmaster's Residence 11. A Camel Team. VIEWS IN AND AROUND WILCANNIA ON THE DARLING RIVER.

The centre-lift bridge was built in 1896.

There were about 70 members of the rowing club.

There was a sub-inspector, a sergeant, three constables, and a black tracker stationed at Wilcannia. (3.)

"Wilcannia is an important mail centre, no less than seven lines converging there, including Bourke, Cobar, Booligal, Menindie, Broken Hill, Mount Brown, and Wanauring. Twenty-six coaches arrive and depart during the week,...."

Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Saturday 22 May 1897

Knox and Downs a store, where you could buy almost everything, was built in 1899 of local sandstone.

Donkey team with wagon at Knox & Downs store shed on the Darling River - Wilcannia, NSW

Loading steamer and barge at Wilcannia on the darling, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Saturday 9 December 1899

1900s

Mail coaches, Wilcannia, New South Wales heading for White Cliffs and Bourke, circa 1900 - also a bicycle postie. Kaye

After 1900, with the arrival of the rail, the need for a river port became less important, and Wilcannia went into decline.

The White Cliffs to Wilcannia Mail Coach, WHICH WAS STUCK UP AND ROBBED ON SEPTEMBER 1, 1901.

The author, Charles Dickens' son Edward, migrated to Australia. He later settled at Wilcannia and became manager of Mount Murchison Station.

The Late Mr. E. B. L. Dickens.EX-M.L.A. FOR WILCANNIA. YOUNGEST SON OF CHARLES DICKENS. Australian Town and Country Journal (Sydney, NSW : 1870 - 1919), Saturday 1 February 1902

White Cliffs Coach Leaving Club Hotel, Wilcannia, N.S.W. - circa 1905, Kay e

Municipal Chambers and Free Public Reading Room in Wilcannia, N.S.W. - circa 1908

River steamers at the Wilcannia Bridge, NSW, Australian Town and Country Journal (Sydney, NSW : 1870 - 1919), Wednesday 20 July 1910

Wool barge, Wilcannia, NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 16 October 1912

The arrival of the shearers, Darling River, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 16 October 1912

Camel teams and steamers carried goods to and from the region.

Wilcannia, NSW, Chronicle (Adelaide, SA : 1895 - 1954), Saturday 7 June 1913

THE GRANDSTAND AT THE WILCANNIA RACECOURSE. Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 4 June 1913

A man on a wooden canoe on the Darling River, near Wilcannia. A descendant of the man has identified him as 'Hero Black' a Barkindji Elder, referred to in some sources as the 'King of the Medindee Tribe'. Approximately 1913-1919, SLSA ("Cocoa" here)

WWI

Fully equipped motor ambulance presented by the people of Wilcannia and District to the Australian Forces. The ear cost £600 in England, and the money was raised by the Darling Empire League in a fortnight. Observer (Adelaide, SA : 1905 - 1931), Saturday 15 September 1917

Three Wilcannia Boys on Active Service. PTE. G. V. BONNEY., PTE. A. WETZEL.Pte. W. BONNEY is a brother-in-Jaw of the Bonneys. Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 11 July 1917

Wilcannia army cadets, NSW, - WW1 era, Kaye

1920s

Mission camps operated from the early 1920s, then the New South Wales Housing Commission became responsible for Indigenous housing in the late 1960s.

Cylcons : the mystery stones of the Darling river valley. Cylindro-conical stones of the Aboriginal people of the Darling River. There are various theories about their purpose. Sunraysia Daily (Mildura, Vic. : 1920 - 1932), Thursday 9 June 1921

Group at Aboriginal settlement - Wilcannia, NSW, SLNSW

Mrs. S. Leckie, Riversleigh, Wilcannia, with her Oldsmobile, coach, recently supplied by Vivian Lewis Limited. This is her second purchase of an Oldsmobile. Mail (Adelaide, SA : 1912 - 1954), Saturday 31 July 1926

1930s

Australasian (Melbourne, Vic. : 1864 - 1946), Saturday 20 May 1933

ABORIGINAL ART. In the Darling Valley of New South Wales, in the neighbourhood of Wilcannia, several caves were explored by Mr. R. L. Black, of Leeton, and he obtained many photographs of remarkable drawings by aborigines Australasian (Melbourne, Vic. : 1864 - 1946), Saturday 20 May 1933

VH-UVU Tugan LJW.7 Gannet, Wilcannia, NSW, between 1935-1937 / photographer Reverend Edward ("Ted") Alexander Roberts, State Library of New South Wales

Jack Galloway and Lizzie, Wilcannia, NSW, between 1935-1937 / photographer Reverend Edward ("Ted") Alexander Roberts, State Library of New South Wales

Sunday school, Wilcannia, NSW, 1937 / photographer Reverend Edward ("Ted") Alexander Roberts, State Library of New South Wales

The main street in Wilcannia with two trucks carrying sheep. 1935, Museums Victoria

The Wilcannia jail and police station. 1935, Museums Victoria

A 'CANOE' TREE ON THE DARLING. It- is a river gum from which the aborigines cut a sheet of bark for a canoe many years ago. Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 23 December 1936

Daily Examiner (Grafton, NSW : 1915 - 1954), Monday 30 October 1933

Barrier Miner (Broken Hill, NSW : 1888 - 1954), Saturday 9 December 1939

Barrier Miner (Broken Hill, NSW : 1888 - 1954), Friday 3 November 1939

1940s and WWII

Wilcannia Soldier's Experiences Overseas The Struggle In Greece And Crete Private Jack Smith who is the first of the Wilcannia men to return from overseas, is now recovertng from wounds received at Volo, 12 miles. north-eash from Larrissa in Greece, where his unit was heavily attacked German dive-bombers. Western Grazier (Wilcannia, NSW : 1896 - 1951), Friday 17 October 1941

Mount Murchison station, near Wilcannia, NSW. Chronicle (Adelaide, SA : 1895 - 1954), Thursday 17 April 1941

Aboriginal serviceman Jack Quayle (born Milparinka, NSW), served in Borneo in World War II. B883: Army, 2nd Al F

John Alexander Quayle, 1904-1967, Wilcannia Cemetery, NSW

Western Grazier (Wilcannia, NSW : 1896 - 1951), Friday 19 February 1943

MATES FROM WILCANNIA, Cpl. F. C. ("Barney") Woodberry and Dvr. H. J. ("Nugget") McQueen. They met in Malaya when Barney was wounded and Nugget drove him to hospital, have been together ever since. Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), Saturday 29 September 1945

1950s