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Muswellbrook, NSW: In The Upper Hunter River Valley

Muswellbrook, NSW, is located in the upper Hunter River valley, about 110 km (70 miles) northwest of Newcastle.

This charming rural town was founded in 1827 and called Muscle Brook (for mussels found in a local stream).

The Wonnarua and Gamilaroi Peoples

Early accounts state that there was considerable contact, both friendly and hostile, between Wonarua people of the Middle Hunter and the Gamilaroi of the western slopes of the Dividing Range.
 There are many Aboriginal sites in Yengo National Park, NSW lined to the Awabakal, Darkinjung, Darug, Gamilaroi, Guringai, Wonnarua and Worimi people

THE WONNARUA TRIBE AND LANGUAGE. Here

"Their clothing used to be' an opossum-skin cloak, and a girdle of spun opossum hair next the skin, and their principal ornament a nautilus shell cut into an oval shape and suspended from the neck by a string. They also anointed the person on gala occasions with a mixture of red ochre and fat, and lived in bark 'mia-miams like those in use in all the southern portions of the continent."

"Their effects were the ordinary spears, wommera, shields, and war-boome- rangs, and also the boomerang which returns when thrown, which was used partly as a toy and was also thrown into flights of ducks and other birds with very good results."

"For food they got the kangaroo and emu, which they killed with spears and captured 'with nets, besides the other animals and reptiles found in their country; as also a variety of roots, one of which was that of the water-lily. These they roasted in the usual way, or baked in the heaps of cinders and stone (or cinders and lumps of clay) usually called ovens."

"The canoes were sheets of bark, cut from suitable trees in such a manner as to give a little elevation to the sides and ends. Fish they caught with nets and three-pronged spears."
Windsor and Richmond Gazette (NSW : 1888 - 1965), Saturday 20 March 1897
Wagga Wagga Advertiser (NSW : 1875 - 1910), Thursday 9 August 1900
Baiame Cave in Yengo National Park, NSW. (Baiame is the creator god and sky father in the Dreaming of several Aboriginal Australian peoples of south-eastern Australia)

The Gamilaroi/Gamilaraay  (alternative spellings)

Gamilaraay is formed from gamil, meaning "no", and the suffix -(b)araay, bearing the sense of "having". It is a common practice among Australian tribes to have themselves identified according to their respective words for "no".
Aboriginal weapons. 1, 2, 3, 4, .5, and 6 are boomerangs of the returning variety. 7 is a fishing spear. 8 is the wommera (or throwing stick). 9 is the bull-roarer. 10 is a spear of 3 pieces used in the Keeparra ceremony. 11 and 12 are axe heads of basaltic rock. Notes on the aborigines of New South Wales, 1907
Howitt in 1904, defined the Kamilaroi area as: “In short, nearly the whole of the pastoral district of Liverpool Plains.”

Howitt (1904) states that the Gamilaroi "followed down the heads of the Hunter across from the Talbragar to the Nunmurra waters, and even occasionally made raids as far as Jerry's Plains".

In the mythologic past, the weedn was an eminent '"medicine man," or (/ooudaidhar, among the Kamilaroi and neighbouring tribes. (1.)

Gamilaraay youths initiation was conducted at a Bora ceremony on a borasite especially prepared for the occasion. (the ritual lasted about a month)

R H Matthews describes Aboriginal initiation ceremonies of the region here. The Gamilaroi and other tribes taught young men a secret language, called tyake, during their rites of initiation. In these systems, the normal profane terms used in everyday speech had to be substituted with the special mystical vocabulary.

Owing to the prominent use assigned to the bull-roarer in the initiation ceremonies of the Kamilaroi and other tribes, a short description of the various forms of this instrument will be of interest. The earliest mention of the bull-roarer........
" a thin, oval piece of wood, about 5 inches long and an inch and a half wide, tied to a string, by which the natives swing it rapidly round, and thus cause a humming noise. Females and children are not allowed to see it, much less to use it." (R H Matthews)

"From the time the Bora was commenced until the ground was abandoned, two of the old men kept guard over it day and night, they camped at baiamai's fire, and had dogs, to give.the alarm if any stranger approached. All the men of the tribes took their turn in watching the ground, and there were always two of them on this duty at the same time." * Baiame was the creator god and sky father in the Dreaming of several Aboriginal groups.
Aboriginal ceremony 'the bora tree' Josef Lebovic Gallery collection no. 1
The BORA, or INITIATION CEREMONIES OF The KAMILAROI TRIBE. By R. H. MATTHEWS, Licensed Surveyor, N.S.W. here

Caves art, rock engravings, axe-grinding grooves, and camp sites may be found in the area. The Skellatar Hill has significance to Aboriginal people traditionally as way of orienting people within the landscape.

1800s

In 1819, John Howe, chief constable at Windsor, crossed the Hawkesbury and explored lands towards the Hunter, and discovered grasslands "equal to the meadows of England."

1820s

In August 1824, Henry Dangar, a government surveyor and pastoralist, explored the present site of Muswellbrook.

On October 10, 1824 Henry Dangar was visited by a tribe of 15 Aboriginal people when he was camping at Dartbrook:

“….they appear’d to have great confidence in us by not evincing any fear as the (sic) approach’d us. Should conceive they have had no communication with White People – as everything shew them causes them to make gestures and evince much surprise…kept watch all night. Saw the native fires 8 or 10 in number at 1/2 mile dist.”

When Dangar and his party were just beyond the Liverpool Range, they were attacked by 150 Aboriginal people. They retreated.

Muscle Creek was originally named "Mussel Creek" by a party of surveyors who found mussels there while camping along its banks.

In 1824, "Edinglassie", on Denman Road, was taken up by George Forbes, brother to Sir Francis Forbes. Edinglassie became an important horse stud.

Some believe that the name "Musclebrook" was changed to "Muswellbrook" by Sir Francis Forbes of "Edinglassie" as it reminded him of his early childhood at Muswell Hill, in England.

The property, "Skellator" was a land grant to the colony’s first Chief Justice, Sir Francis Forbes, in 1825. Skellatar estate is named after the Forbes family’s ancestral estate in Aberdeen, Scotland. Read more

Grape vines were first planted in the Hunter Valley in the early 1820s from cuttings brought to NSW by James Busby.

The Great North Road was built by convicts between 1825 and 1836, to link Sydney with the Hunter Valley.
Old Great North Road (Devine's Hill to Mount Manning Section) now walking track and service road, between Wisemans Ferry and Mount Manning, New South Wales, Australia. It was designed by Surveyor-General Thomas Mitchell and built from 1826 to 1834 by convict road gangs. 
Capt Samuel Wright took up the land in 1826, calling it "Bengalla".

1830s

In November 1831, Major Thomas Mitchell expedition passed through Muswellbrook.

Major Thomas Mitchell wrote that the Aboriginal people of the area, lived in a rich environment with many resources around the rivers (1838). 

St Heliers was an historic homestead at Muswellbrook built in 1831 on a grant made to Lieutenant-Colonel Henry Dumaresq.
In 1833, surveyor Robert Dixon drafted a plan for a village reserve at the junction of Muscle Creek and the Hunter River. At the time, it was gazetted as the town of "Musclebrook". 

The first land lots were sold in 1834. Muswellbrook was established as a farming centre.

From the very early days, settlers have found Aboriginal edge-ground axe-heads ("mogos" from a Wonarua term).

A coach service began running between Darlington, Muswellbrook and Invermein in 1837.

In 1837 a store in the main street, Bridge Street, operated as a post office by Richard Dangar. (3.)

Police Magistrate, Edward Denny Day, was appointed to Muswellbrook, where in June 1838, he led a party to apprehend the murderers of 28 Aboriginal people murdered at Myall Creek. (2.)

Loxton House at 142–144 Bridge Street was built in 1838.
Loxton House at 142–144 Bridge Street, Muswellbrook, NSW, was built in 1838
The timber White Hart Inn was constructed in 1839.

1840s

The escaped convict and bushranger Teddy "Jewboy" Davis and his gang terrorised settlers in the Hunter Valley. Captain Day organized a party of mounted men, pursued the bushrangers, and captured five of them, after a short skirmish at Doughboy Hollow; a sixth was arrested the next day.
By 1840 the population was 215, with 41 houses, a hotel, and shops. Weidmann Cottage was built from 1840 to 1845 by the original owner, David Brown.

The Benevolent Society established in 1840.

The end of convict transportation to NSW in 1840.

A steam flour mill established in 1841.

Depression years of the early 1840s affect Britain and the colony of NSW.

By the mid 1840s, the Mounted Police consisted of around 150 troopers in five divisions distributed among 35 stations ranging from Muswellbrook in the north, Portland Bay in the south and Wellington in the west.

In 1842, the land on which the former Chain of Ponds Inn now stands was granted to Henry Nowland of Muswellbrook, who built the inn in the same year. The complex included the inn building, a police lockup for prisoners in transport and a stabling area for coaches. (also known as the Half Way House due to its location between Singleton and Muswellbrook)

The original St Albans Church was constructed of brick and built by Captain Scott of "Bengalla" using convict labour in 1843. (demolished 1937)

The original Presbyterian Church was built in Hill Street by in 1843.
Original St John’s Presbyterian Church, Muswellbrook, NSW, Australian Town and Country Journal (Sydney, NSW : 1870 - 1919)
Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), Monday 30 June 1845
George Chiver's tweeds of Muswellbrook, NSW, 1845, Muswellbrook Chronicle (NSW : 1898 - 1955)
Patrick Bellew was granted a publicans' licence for the "Shamrock Inn" at Muswellbrook in July 1846. (Free Settler or Felon)

The Sir Thomas Mitchell line stock route running from Muswellbrook to Singleton through Jerry's Plains is abandoned by coaches in 1847. 

The Great North Road, that crossed the Hawkesbury near Wiseman's ferry and went through the area later known as St. Albans to Wollombi, is used by coaches. Tracks were then surveyed to Singleton and Maitland.

A private subdivision called "Forbestown" was opened to the south of Muscle Creek and in 1848. The name changed, however, to "South Muswellbrook" to prevent confusion with the town of Forbes.
Muswellbrook Chronicle (NSW : 1898 - 1955)
Jackey Jackey was a member of the Wonnarua tribe in NSW. He accompanied the explorer Edmund Kennedy on an expedition in 1848 to Cape York Peninsula. Read here
 Jackey Jackey (Galmahra) seems to have grown up and lived at Jerrys Plains near Muswellbrook, New South Wales, possibly as a member of the local Australian Aboriginal people, the Wonnarua

1850s

Gold was discovered in the Hunter and Bathurst regions in the 1850s.

Henry Nowland owned many allotments in the town of Muswellbrook in the 1850s.

Prince of Wales Tavern was established in 1852 as the Cross Keys Hotel and was renamed The Prince of Wales Hotel in 1865.

People and Buildings in Muswellbrook 1856, here

1860s

Frederick Ward, alias Captain Thunderbolt, was known as one of Australia's last bushrangers. In the 1860s, he conducted a crime spree in Dungog, Stroud and Singleton from November 1863 to January 1864. 

Interestingly, thunderbolt's literate and skilled wife was one of Australia's first female bushrangers, Mary Ann Bugg. She was also of Aboriginal Worimi background on her mother's side. 
Singleton Argus (NSW : 1880 - 1954)
1. Mary Ann Bugg was an Aboriginal bushranger 2. Bushranger Frederick Ward aka Captain Thunderbolt 
Muswellbrook Post Office was constructed in two stages in 1861 and 1885.

Coal was discovered in the Muswellbrook district in the 1860s.

St Alban's Anglican Church was built from 1864 to 1869 by Edmund Blacket.

Great Northern Railway to Muswellbrook was completed in 1869. The original 1869 John Whitton brick station building remains.

The first known newspaper published in Muswellbrook, the Muswellbrook Monitor, in May 1869.

1870s

The Muswellbrook Chronicle and Upper Hunter advertiser has been published in Muswellbrook since 1872.
View of town - Muswellbrook, NSW, 1875, SLNSW
Maitland Mercury and Hunter River General Advertiser (NSW : 1843 - 1893), Saturday 27 September 1879

1880s

"Edinglassie" farm and homestead located at 710 Denman Road was built from 1880 to 1895.
Edinglassie farm and homestead located at 710 Denman Road, Muswellbrook, NSW, was built from 1880 to 1895. Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW : 1883 - 1930), Wednesday 5 October 1910
On a hilltop on the outskirts of town, sits “Skellatar House”, built in 1883 the Bowman family. 
Skellatar House, Muswellbrook, NSW, built 1883

1890s

The first coal mine in the region was established in the 1890s. (underground)

The Aberdeen Meatworks was established in 1892.
Muswellbrook Polo Team, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Saturday 10 November 1894
 ABORIGINAL NOMENCLATURE.A correspondent supplies to the Maitland Mercury some of the aboriginalnames of places around Muswellbrook. These he found in an old diary of his father's (the late Mr. J. H. Keys), dated January, 1854.Australian Star (Sydney, NSW : 1887 - 1909), Saturday 18 July 1896

1900s

Royal Hotel, Muswellbrook, NSW, (previous names, The Thistle, The Shamrock, The Rose) The Golden Fleece,  Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Saturday 26 May 1900
Muswellbrook, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Saturday 26 May 1900
Carnival week, Muswellbrook, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Saturday 26 May 1900
In 1901 the population was 1,710, with 330 houses.

Kayuga Coal‐Mining Co Ltd was formed in 1906.
Muswellbrook Railway Station, NSW, 1906
 Some well known citizens of Muswellbrook, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 26 September 1906
 Remains of old St Alban's Church, Muswellbrook, NSW, (t was erected in 1843 by convict labour, under a contract taken by Captain Scott, of Bengalla). Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 26 September 1906
Messrs Campbell and Co's Store, at Corner of Bridge and Brook Streets, Muswellbrook., NSW, 1908, Special Collections
 II. R. FLANDER'S EATON HOTEL, MUSWELLBROOK, The Leading Hotel of the Town, and one of the Most Comfortable on the Northern Line.Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 14 April 1909
MUSWELLBROOK BRASS BAND, HUNTER VALLY, N.S.W. - 1910, Aussie Mobs
Coming into Muswellbrook, NSW, 1910, SLNSW
Bridge Street, Muswellbrook, N.S.W. - 1912, Aussie~mobs
Luscombe's Chambers, Muswellbrook, NSW, was built by J.C. Luscombe in 1913

WWI

Brentwood Hospital was established in 1914.

After World War many large farming properties were subdivided into smaller farms and dairying replaced wheat and wool.
 Mr. and Mrs. W. Bridge, of Muswellbrook, N.S.W., and their soldier sons. Australian Town and Country Journal (Sydney, NSW : 1870 - 1919), Wednesday 19 September 1917
Members of the Newcastle Motor Cycle Club outside Eaton 's Hotel in Muswellbrook, NSW, circa 1918, PD
Muswellbrook Co‐operative Dairy Company was established in 1919.

1920s

NOTABLE ABORIGINE Perpetuating Hunter River Identity's Memory. 'Old Tom' was a well-known flgure in Newcastle, and had many friends, who not only respected the flne old man. but had learned lo love him. He was born on the Hawkesbury River, but early in his life was taken 'up country' by one of the pastorallsts of the upper Hunter. There he was taught station work, and became an expert in handling blood stock. Newcastle Sun (NSW : 1918 - 1954), Saturday 4 August 1923
The Picture Theatre opened in 1924.
Muswellbrook Chronicle (NSW : 1898 - 1955), Tuesday 8 January 1924
The Municipality of Musclebrook was re‐proclaimed in 1925.
The Hotel Muswellbrook, NSW, 1925, SLNSW
Muswellbrook Chronicle (NSW : 1898 - 1955), Friday 20 February 1925
Sister Nichols and Matron Furnifull, of the Muswellbrook Hospital, NSW, who nursedsomeof the injured in tbe Aberdeen train smash. Newcastle Sun (NSW : 1918 - 1954), Thursday 1 July 1926
 THE BIRRALEE NURSES' HOME., GIFT OF MISS RUTH WHITE TO THE MUSWELLBROOK HOSPITAL.Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), Wednesday 12 December 1928 (Construction started on the townhouse for Mrs Senior White in 1889, after she found the family home, Edinglassie too large. She donated Birralee to Muswellbrook Hospital in the 1920s
THE WHITE MEMORIAL SWIMMING BATHS AT MUSWELLBROOK.NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 16 October 1929

1930s

At the Muswellbrook Show, NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 16 April 1930
Newcastle Sun (NSW : 1918 - 1954), Wednesday 7 January 1931
The Great Northern Road was gazetted as part of State Highway on 9 August 1928 and renamed the New England Highway in 1933.
The Pit=Head at the Muswellbrook Mine, NSW, Muswellbrook Chronicle (NSW : 1898 - 1955), Tuesday 4 February 1936
An evaporate filtration plant was installed in 1937 to provide the town with clean water and a sewerage system was installed.

Queen Elizabeth II building was built as Council Chambers for the Municipal Council in 1937.
Cattle round-up near Muswellbrook, NSW, Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW : 1931 - 1954), Thursday 25 March 1937
Muswellbrook District Rural School Basjet Ball Team, NSW, Scone Advocate (NSW : 1887 - 1954), Friday 23 July 1937
Muswellbrook Chronicle (NSW : 1898 - 1955), Friday 7 October 1938
Muswellbrook 'A' Grade Cricket Team 35 Years Ago, NSW, Scone Advocate (NSW : 1887 - 1954), Friday 28 July 1939

1940s and WWII

Muswellbrook Chronicle (NSW : 1898 - 1955), Friday 16 February 1940
Muswellbrook mines, NSW, Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners' Advocate (NSW : 1876 - 1954), Friday 17 May 1940
Muswellbrook Chronicle (NSW : 1898 - 1955), Friday 13 August 1943
Open cut mining began in the area in 1944.

In 1944 Muswellbrook Rotary Club was established.
Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW : 1931 - 1954), Tuesday 18 September 1945
Yokohama, Japan. 1945. Squadron Leader Noel Quinn RAAF, of Muswellbrook, NSW, leaving Yokohama headed for home. He was shot down over Rabaul in December 1943, and was recently rescued from Niigata Prison Camp. AWM
St Heliers, established at Muswellbrook by the Child Welfare Department in 1945, was a rural training home, organised on the cottage system, on 700 acres.

Building of the Hunter Valley Co-operative Dairy Company started in 1945 at Muswellbrook. The factory closed in 1994.
Muswellbrook Chronicle (NSW : 1898 - 1955), Friday 30 August 1946
Population was 3,939 in 1947.

In 1948, the town's name was proclaimed “Muswellbrook” and changed from “Musclebrook”.
Muswellbrook Post Office, NSW, 1848, SLNSW
St Heliers Correctional Centre was used as a child welfare institution until its closure in 1986.

1950s

 LIEUT -COLONEL DON. CAMERON, D.S.O. (AND BAR) Scone Advocate (NSW : 1887 - 1954), Friday 13 October 1950 (In 1899 Cameron enlisted for service in the South African War as a trooper in the 1st Australian Horse and sailed for Cape Town in January 1900. He was active in local affairs and in World War II helped organize the Volunteer Defence Corps in the Hunter Valley. He died of diabetes at Muswellbrook, NSW, on 7 October 1950
In 1952 the Muswellbrook Intermediate High School became Muswellbrook High School.

“Queen Elizabeth II Square” declared in 1953, the coronation year.

Milk factory was established in Hunter Street in 1953.
NEW FACTORY.—-View of new Muswellbrook branch factory of the Hunter Valley Co-operative Dairy Company Ltd., which was officially opened by the Governor (Sir John Northcott) last week. The factory is [aid out in an attractive garden setting. Land (Sydney, NSW : 1911 - 1954), Friday 11 December 1953
Prefabricated houses at Muswellbrook, NSW, 1953, SLNSW
Muswellbrook Junior Rugby League Team, 1953, Muswellbrook Chronicle (NSW : 1898 - 1955), Friday 18 September 1953
Muswellbrook Chronicle (NSW : 1898 - 1955), Tuesday 20 September 1955

1960s

The cost of the artificial lake between Singleton and Muswellbrook to supply the new power station with water would cost about £3 million.

Liddell power station began construction in 1865.

A new railway overpass constructed on the northern outskirts of Muswellbrook in May 1966.

In 1969 the population was 6,780.

1970s

Muswellbrook and District Hospital was completed in 1971.

Muswellbrook Shire was established on 1 July 1979 from the amalgamation of the Municipality of Muswellbrook with the adjacent Denman Shire.

1980s

St James School at Skelletor opened in 1983.

The local Picture Theatre closed in 1984.

St Heliers Correctional Centre reopened as a correctional centre in September 1989.

1990s

In 1994 the OAK milk factory closed.

2000s

The Muswellbrook Shire population in 2006 was 15,200.

The 2021 census of Population was 12,272.

2021: Exhibition of handcrafted Aboriginal tools and implements, including, stone tools, naturally tanned animal skins, bush medicines, wooden tools and a Gunyah (hut/ shelter), at Muswellbrook Library.
Exhibition of handcrafted Aboriginal tools and implements at Muswellbrook Library, 2021


Around Muswellbrook


Muswellbrook Railway Station, NSW
Muswellbrook Railway Station, NSW
Muswellbrook Post Office, NSW
Muswellbrook, NSW
132 Bridge Street, Muswellbrook, NSW, Weidmann Cottage, NSW, built 1840s
142–144 Bridge Street: Loxton House, Muswellbrook, NSW, built 1838
Shops, Muswellbrook, NSW
The Eatons Group contains a hotel, shop, house and retail centre located at 178, 180–188 Bridge Street, Muswellbrook, NSW (The first hotel on the site was the timber White Hart Inn which was constructed in 1839)
Railway Hotel, Muswellbrook, NSW, built 1882. The Hotel is recorded as being a brewery between. 1877-1883 and 1885-1890 (There were two Railway Hotels in Muswellbrook. The first one was owned by Joseph Jones. It was opened in 1865, four years before the railway opened, and closed in 1875)
Located north of Muswellbrook, NSW, The Memorial Park contains memorials to both world wars, Vietnam and other conflicts
School of Arts, Muswellbrook, NSW
Royal Hotel, Muswellbrook, NSW
Charge of the Lighthorse on Beersheba Memorial. Address: Bridge Street Muswellbrook, NSW
Sowerby Street, Muswellbrook, NSW, The first building on this site was opened in 1862. In 1864 the Muswellbrook Benevolent Society opened a seven bed hospital


Things To Do and Places To Go




The Upper Hunter Valley Sculpture Trail runs from Muswellbrook to Denman and onto Sandy Hollow -Starts outside the Regional Arts Centre

About Aboriginal languages

Spirit of place: Aboriginal sites of the Hunter Region / Warren Taggart