Situated in Bega Valley, Eden is on the South Coast of New South Wales, 478 kilometres (297 mi) south of Sydney and 210km south-southeast of Canberra.
Discarded shells and bone debris, the remnants of long-ago meals (middens), provide information about Aboriginal
activity and occupation in the Eden region. These middens are widespread along the coast and rivers of the region.
The Yuin community consists of around five or six dialect groups.
At Severs Beach, in Ben Boyd National Park, Aboriginal shelters made from bark were reported in the area during the 1820s. Oral history from the work of Janet Mathews, a recorder of Indigenous culture, claims that Aboriginal ceremonies were happening at Fishy Flats, Eden, in the 1850s.
An ancient Aboriginal trail is
being restored that connected Mount Kosciusko with Bilgalera at Twofold Bay (Fisheries Beach). The Aboriginal people travelled to the high country in the summer to eat Bogong moth, while in the spring, they would journey to the coast to feast on whale meat and other seafoods.
The connection of the coastal Yuin people to the sea and nature was expressed in ceremony, such as those performed when whales migrated north to give birth. Some stories of the Yuin people of the South Coast tell of the Aboriginal people arriving in the area after being guided there by whale elders.
The creator being, called
Dhurramoolun (who may have emu ancestry), is connected to Aboriginal sky hero,
Baiame.
During iniation ceremonies, an instrument we call a bullroarer was whirled through the air, becoming the voice of Dhurramoolun. However, the bullroarer must be cut from a tree which contains his spirit for it to work.
Dhurramoolun, it was believed,
lives in the trees of the bush, particularly in the burls or growths found on the trunks of trees. He only leaves the tree for initiation ceremonies. The Yuin also believed that the thunder is the voice of Dhurramoolun.
In his 1904
Ethnological notes on the Aboriginal tribes of New South Wales and Victoria, R.H. Mathews observed the Aboriginal people of Eden lowering themselves into the whale carcass after the meat and blubber were removed. Covering themselves with whale fat was believed to be a treatment for pain.
It was common for many Aboriginal people, on
first sighting the British, to believe that they were their relatives or ancestors, returned from the dead. The Yuin called both the dead man and the white man
Mumu-gang.
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| An elder from Twofold Bay, NSW, possibly a Thaua member of the Yuin nation, 1890s. Charles Kerry |
In the Yuin tribe, the initiated men assemble, when circumstances require it, at someplace apart from the camp, where matters are discussed relating to the tribe. Women or children, that is, the uninitiated members of the tribe, dare not come near the spot. (Alfred William Howitt).
Males, when being initiated, received cicatrices after the initiation ceremonies (scars). Howitt also observed, "scars are cut on both boys and girls" (Howitt 1904). Initiation status was also shown by knocking out the front tooth.
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| Cicatrices, (scar, the mark left on your skin when a cut, scrape, or burn has started to heal )were cut on the back, chest, shoulders, and upper arms using a sharp rock or shell. Scarification was practised widely by Aboriginal people. The Centennial magazine. Vol. 1 No. 3 (October 1888) |
Traditional Yuin people also engaged in avoidance practices. Susanne Hagan in the book, “Whitefella Culture”
describes the avoidance between certain relatives.
"All Aboriginal groups have the taboo relationship between a man and his mother-in-law. Sometimes this taboo is extended to the woman’s brothers and her husband, and usually includes some degree of respect/avoidance of all women classified as mother-in-law in the kinship system. The taboo generally means that people are not allowed to speak or touch directly. It may mean total avoidance of the other’s presence. Groups vary in how closely they observe this taboo and in how much they expect outsiders to conform."
1770
James Cook passed by Twofold Bay in April of 1770 but due to the poor weather conditions, did not sight the area.
By 1791, whaling boats were operating in the area.
George Bass was given permission by the governor to make a voyage of exploration: “For the purpose of examining the coast to the southward of this port as far as he could with safety and convenience go.”
In December 1797, Bass arrived at Twofold Bay, which he named on account of the two bays that made up the harbour.
Matthew Flinders later wrote of Bass’s voyage: “…voyage expressly
undertaken for discovery in an open boat and in which six hundred miles of coast, mostly in a boisterous climate, was explored, has not, perhaps, its equal in the annals of maritime discovery.”
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| 1. Captain Matthew Flinders (16 March 1774 – 19 July 1814) was a British navigator and cartographer. 2. George Bass (1771-1803), surgeon and sailor., George Bass and Matthew Flinders were first to circumnavigate the coast of mainland Australia |
Three months later, George Bass and Matthew Flinders embarked on a voyage to establish a route to Van Diemen’s Land. However, due to the, "foul wind", they sought shelter in Twofold Bay, and made inland excursions and surveyed the area.
Matthew Flinders encountered a memorable Aboriginal man on Aslings Beach, at Eden, during his circumnavigation of Australia. He wrote of the event:
"He was a middle aged man, unarmed, except with a "whaddie", or wooden scimitar, and came up to us seemingly with careless confidence. We made much of him, and gave him some biscuit; and he in return presented us with a piece of grisly fat, probably of whale. This I tasted; but watching an opportunity to spit it out when he should not be looking, I perceived him doing precisely the same with our biscuit, whose taste was probably no more agreeable to him, than his whale was to me."
The French Baudin expedition of 1800 to 1803 to survey the Australian coastline and make scientific discoveries was later revealed as being motivated partly to scope out the possibility of a French invasion of the British colony. The zoologist on the ship, Francois Peron, proposed that the French and Americans should send five ships of war and a supply ship to Eden to assemble a force to invade from Botany Bay.
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| Géographe and Naturaliste. The Baudin expedition of 1800 to 1803 was a French expedition to map the coast of New Holland (now Australia) |
In 1804, a privately owned vessel called the
Contest accompanied the
HMS Integrity to the colonial outpost in Van Diemen's Land,
when heavy storms and winds were encountered. So
Integrity returned to Port Jackson. Of the
Contest, there was no sign, and it was believed that, the ship was lost at sea.
The
Integrity attempted the voyage to Van Diemen's Land again in the following month, when strong seas forced the ship to shore at Twofold Bay, and there they found the
Contest. However, instead of
continuing the voyage, the
Integrity and
Contest returned to Port Jackson together.
In December 1817, botanist Allan Cunningham came ashore at Snug Cove, Eden, to collect botanical specimens.
1818: Whalemen of Twofold Bay
Thomas Raine established the first onshore whaling station at Twofold Bay in 1818. He was the father of Thomas Jnr, who co-founded Raine & Horne real estate with Joseph Horne in 1883.
The open whale-boats, with crews of five or six, would chase the whales, harpooning them when they got close enough to the fleeing animal.
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| Twofold Bay, N.S.W. - 1819, Kaye |
An Aboriginal man remembered his grandfather saying that the killer whales would come near the shore and men from the tribe would stoke their backs with their spears (
1.)
Brothers Peter and George Imlay began whaling at Twofold Bay in the early 1830s and took up land, where they
operated as pastoralists, whalers, and shipbuilders and produced casks of tallow and salted meat.
Governor Bourke sailed in the John Penn to Twofold Bay in 1833 to inspect the south coast area. Riding along bridle tracks through Merimbula, Tura, Bournda, Bega and along the coast to Bermagui, the expiration party then returned to Twofold Bay and sailed back to Sydney.
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| Colonist (Sydney, NSW : 1835 - 1840), Thursday 4 August 1836 |
The Killers of Eden (whales)
The killers of Eden or Twofold Bay killers were a group of killer whales (Orcinus orca) which cooperated with human hunters between 1840 and 1930 at Twofold Bay.
Killer whales are natural predators of the baleen whale, and amazingly, they helped the human whalers by leading the prey into shallow water and then, they would throw their bodies over the vent, causing their prey to thrash about in fear.
The whalers would move in to attack. The pod of killer whales
were rewarded with the discarded tongues and lips, a practice known as the "Law of the Tongue".
Old Tom was the last of the killer whales who would assist whalers in hunting baleen whales. Old Tom's bones were preserved, and his skeleton is on display at the Eden Killer Whale Museum.
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| The killer whale known as Old Tom swims alongside a whaling boat, flanking a whale calf. The boat is being towed by a harpooned whale (not visible here) |
1840s: Boydtown and East Boyd
The history of the town of Eden starts with Boydstown, 8 km south of today's town.
Benjamin Boyd arrived in the colony from London in 1842, and set about establishing a shipping and pastoral empire.
Boyd persuaded investors and it is claimed, made some of his fortune from "black birding"(the practice of coercing people to work as indentured labourers).
Soon, the
Seahorse paddle-steamer was plying between Sydney, Twofold Bay and Hobart. After purchasing land in the Riverina and Monaro regions, Boyd decided to
establish a port and settlement at Twofold Bay.
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| Image of Benjamin Boyd from State Library of New South Wales, Australia. Call Number ML1461 |
By 1843, Boyd had laid out two towns, Boyd Town and East Boyd, on either bank of the Towamba River, and
the building of a hotel, church, wool store and jetty were in progress, using convict labour.
Boyd also established a new whaling station in the region. All was going well until an economic depression, combined with Boyd's excessive expenditure, caused Boyd to lose much of his wealth.
After the Seahorse paddle-steamer was damaged in 1849, financial ruin looked unavoidable. Building and operations ceased at Boydtown, leaving the church and tower only partially completed and the Seahorse Inn close to completion. Fleeing to the goldfields of California in 1849, where he was unsuccessful,
Boyd went ashore at Guadalcanal in the Solomon Islands in 1851, and was never seen again after shots rang out.
The first post office at Boydtown was administered by Ebenezer Orr.
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| Ruins of the old church, Boyd Town, Twofold Bay, Eden, NSW. Built by Ben Boyd in 1840s but never consecrated, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), |
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| Boyd's Tower was built as a lightouse but permission to light it was refused by government, Australian Town and Country Journal (Sydney, NSW : 1870 - 1907) |
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| Wool store, Boyd Town, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912) |
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| The Seahorse Inn commenced construction in 1843, built with convict labour and was never fully completed. Boyd Town, Eden, NSW. Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912) |
1842: Eden Town
Mr Thomas Townsend, the Government Surveyor, surveyed the proposed town of Eden in 1842.
The Town was named after George Eden, 1st Earl of Auckland, thrice First Lord of the Admiralty and British Secretary for the Colonies. (5.24 km (3.26 miles) from Boydtown to Eden in northeast direction)
The main street, Imlay Street, was named after the Imlay brothers, who were early pioneers.
With the decline of Boydtown, Eden began to grow.
The Crown and Anchor Inn was the first solid building at Eden, built by George Hirst.
The Eden Post Office was first established in 1844 but located at various sites.
Eden's first Court of Petty Sessions was established in Eden in 1847. The courthouse was built in 1857 and has the old Police station behind it. A chief constable and two constables were stationed at Eden in 1849.
The Eden Hotel (now the Great Southern Hotel) was built in 1847 as a combined hotel and grocery store by Irish farm servants Isabella and George Barclay, who arrived in Sydney in March 1841. Barclay Street is on the northern side of Eden Cemetery.
The Customs House at Eden was built in 1848.
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| New South Wales Government Gazette (Sydney, NSW : 1832 - 1900), Friday 20 October 1848 (No.119), page 1493 |
1850sAs Eden was the nearest port to the Kiandra gold rush of the 1850s, it developed in importance, with stores, hotels and trades being established.
Alexander Davidson established Twofold bay as an important centre of East Coast shore-based whaling in 1857.
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| The 2nd Customs House was built in 1857, Eden, NSW |
1860s
The first Catholic Church at Eden, the Star of the Sea Catholic Church was built in 1860. The building was later restored and renamed Mary MacKillop Hall.
A timber lighthouse was constructed at Lookout Point in 1860.
At the end of 1861 the permanent population of Eden was 265.
St Georges Uniting Church was built about 1865. It is one of the oldest
continuously used churches in NSW.
Sir Oswald Brierly, an artist, managed a whaling operation at Boydtown in the 1840s. He created various paintings and sketches of the bay.
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| Sir Oswald Brierly, Whalers off Twofold Bay, New South Wales (1867) (Art Gallery of New South Wales) |
Davidson Whaling Station
The Davidson family began whaling around 1860. Davidson Whaling Station is located on the southern shore of Twofold Bay, 35 km by road south of Eden on Kiah Inlet at the mouth of the Towamba River. In 1896 George Davidson built the cottage,
Loch Garra. A catch of 10–15 whales each season was reported. The Davidsons moved way
from the station in the 1940s.
The Solomon family joined Davidson running the shore-based whaling station at Twofold Bay, employing many Aboriginal workers. Solomon Solomon also owned a store. The site of the Aboriginal women's camp during the whaling period was located above the whalers' cottages.
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| George Davidson with harpoon gun, Australasian (Melbourne, Vic. : 1864 - 1946), Saturday 3 October 1936 |
1880s
The Green Cape Lighthouse was built in 1883, after shipwrecks in Disaster Bay.
St John's Anglican Church was completed in 1885.
Shipwreck
On 30 May 1886, the
Ly-ee-moon, a three-masted iron transport ship, was
on a voyage from Melbourne to Sydney when it was wrecked off Green Cape, New South Wales (near Eden).
About seventy-one men, women and children died. The ship's Captain Arthur W. Webber, and his third officer James Fotheringham, both survived and faced charges of manslaughter.
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| Ly-ee-Moon shipwreck resulted in the loss of 71 lives on the night of May 30, 1886, and is considered to be one of NSW's worst maritime disasters. Queensland University of Technology |
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| Eden Free Press and Eden District Advertiser (NSW : 1899), Wednesday 11 January 1899 |
1900s
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| Bombala Times and Manaro and Coast Districts General Advertiser (NSW : 1899 - 1905), Friday 8 November 1901 |
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| Australia Post occupied this building in 1891, Eden NSW, Australian Town and Country Journal (Sydney, NSW : 1870 - 1907), Wednesday 14 March 1906 |
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| 1. Anglican Church 2. Presbyterian Church, Eden, NSW, Australian Town and Country Journal (Sydney, NSW : 1870 - 1907), Wednesday 14 March 1906 |
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Catholic Church and Convent, Eden, NSW, Australian Town and Country Journal (Sydney, NSW : 1870 - 1907), Wednesday 14 March 1906
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| Image from page 48 of "A brief review of the fisheries of New South Wales, present and potential .." (1910) Killer (Orca gladiator) and Little Piked Whale( Balcsnoptera acutorostrata), both about 30 feet long, cast up on Haslem's Beach, Twofold Bay. Internet Archive Book Images |
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| Great Southern Hotel, Eden, N.S.W. - early 1900s. Proprietor was W.N. Rudd, Kaye |
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TRYING-OUT WORKS, KIAH RIVER, TWOFOLD BAY, NSW, The Lone hand. Vol. 3 No. 15 (1 July 1908)
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| Whaling crew, Twofold Bay, NSW, The Lone hand. Vol. 3 No. 15 (1 July 1908) |
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| AN AVERAGE HUMPBACK WHALE AT TWOFOLD BAY (WILL YIELD ABOUT 5 TUNS OF OIL). Twofold Bay, NSW, The Lone hand. Vol. 3 No. 15 (1 July 1908) |
Mr Sabina Pike bought one acre of land in Imlay Street and set about organising the construction of the last of Eden’s nearly two dozen hotels. The Hotel Australasia was completed in 1909. The facade of the hotel altered in the 1950s, and the venue became known as the "The Snake Pit".
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| View of Imlay Street, Eden, looking north; Hotel Australasia and Great Southern Hotel on right; horse drawn vehicles in centre, ca. 1910?, Libraries Australia |
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| Hotel Australasia, Imlay Street, Eden, with carriage at front, photo between 1900 and 1920, Libraries Australia |
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| Five man whale boat in whale chase, Twofold Bay, EDEN, NSW, between 1900-1922, National Library of Australia |
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| Dead whale moored in Twofold Bay; old Davidson home near Kiah River, East Boyd Town in background, [between ca. 1900 and 1922] |
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| Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 15 November 1911 |
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| A load of rabbits for the factory, Eden, NSW, Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Saturday 12 August 1911 |
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| Humpback whale, Twofold Bay, NSW, Leader (Melbourne, Vic. : 1862 - 1918, 1935), Saturday 11 May 1912 |
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| Twofold Bay Magnet : and South Coast and Southern Monaro Advertiser (NSW : 1908 - 1919), Monday 25 September 1911 |
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| SS Sydney leaving the wharf at Eden, NSW, n.d. Aussie~mobs |
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| C.E Wellings the famous photographer took photos of Aboriginal whalers at Twofold Bay, NSW. Left William Iberia Thomas and to the right of Wellings, Albert Thomas Snr and Albert Thomas Jnr, circa 1915 |
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| View of Imlay Street, Eden, NSW, looking south; horse drawn covered dray in centre, [between ca. 1900 and 1920?] Libraries Australia |
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| Imlay Street, Eden, N.S.W. looking north - circa 1911, Great Southern Hotel on the right. Kaye |
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| Studio portrait of 2219 Private (Pte) Roy Davidson of Eden, NSW. A labourer before enlisting in June 1915, Pte Davidson served with the 1st Battalion on the Western Front, and was reported missing at Pozieres sometime between the 22 and 25 July 1916. Pte Davidson's remains were never found, however it is believed that he was killed by a shell alongside two other members of the battalion |
1920s
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| Great Southern Hotel, Eden, NSW, 1920, ANU |
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| Brierley's cottage, Merton, East Boyd Town, New South Wales, between ca. 1900 and ca. 1948 |
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| Imlay St, Eden, NSW, circa 1920 |
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| Old whaling station, Twofold Bay, NSW, circa 1920, The National Archives UK |
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| Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 6 April 1921 |
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| Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 2 January 1924 |
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| Mount Imlay, Twofold Bay, NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 2 January 1924 |
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Construction of the Bank of New South Wales building, Eden began late 1904, picture taken
[between 1920 and 1929] Libraries Australia |
1930s
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| Eden Girl Guides, NSW, was built to a Canadian design using local stringy bark poles and was opened for use on 29 February 1936. Libraries Australia |
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| The Seahorse Inn, Twofold Bay, NSW, ARGUS (Melb) 7th March 1936 |
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| The first Customs House was built in Eden in 1848. Earlier the first customs officer was appointed in 1846 but he was located at East Boyd, (photo March 8, 1938), Libraries Australia (The 2nd Customs House was built in 1857) |
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| Hotel Australasia, Imlay Street, Eden, NSW, 1940 (Built in 1904) |
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The whaling station, Twofold Bay, Many years ago, NSW,
The school magazine of literature for our boys and girls Vol. 26 No. 8 Part 3 Class 5 (September 3, 1941) |
On March 28, 1942, four World War II American pilots were heading to the NSW south coast for gunnery practice after taking off from Fairbairn Airfield near Canberra.
However, thick fog at Eden caused two of the Kittyhawk planes to clip each other. They crashed at Mt Imlay, about 30km west of Eden’s Twofold Bay. Both pilots were killed. The two other planes made emergency landings.
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| Eden, NSW. c April 1942. The crash site of a United States Army Air Force (USAAF) P40 Kittyhawk aircraft on the slopes of Mount Imlay. AWM |
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| Oyster farm at low tide, Twofold Bay, NSW, Chronicle (Adelaide, SA : 1895 - 1954), Thursday 7 August 1947 |
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| Twofold Bay from "Fairmont", Eden, NSW, 1948, Royal Australian Historical Society |
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| Fishing boats at Eden Wharf; Mount Imlay in background; partly completed boat near slipway in foreground [between ca. 1900 and ca. 1948] Libraries Australia |
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| Murray Views No. 6, Cattle Bay Wharf, Eden, NSW, c.1948, Royal Australian Historical Society |
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| Western Mail (Perth, WA : 1885 - 1954), Thursday 30 September 1948 |
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| Whiters service station, Eden, NSW, about 1948 , SLNSW |
1950s
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| Eden fish cannery in Cattle Bay.Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Wednesday 3 October 1951 |
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| Eden Golfers: Mesdames A. C. Brennan (club capt.), F. Turnbull (pres.), V. Parkin, A. Otton. Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Wednesday 3 October 1951 |
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| Right: Eden 1st grade Rugby j team. Back row: i B. Grant, A. j Buckingham, E. j Fletcher, B. Switzer, T. Black j B. Geraghty. Front: C. Harvey, R. Edwards, P. Piesley, R. Jessop (capt.), M. Taylor, R. Backhouse, It. Switzer. 'Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Wednesday 3 October 1951 |
1960s: The Vietnam War
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| Private Joe Devilin (Devlin) of Eden, NSW, and B Company, 5th Battalion The Royal Australian Regiment (5RAR), inside an Armoured Personnel Carrier (APC). Private Devlin and fellow diggers of B Company were taken deep into the jungle by the APCs for a three day patrol. 1966, AWM |
The Harris Daishowa woodchip mill began operations at Eden in 1967. It began as a joint venture between Harris Holdings and the Daishowa Paper Manufacturing company. However, the Japanese company took full control a few years later.
1990s
In 1999, after 50 years of operation, the Eden Tuna cannery closed.
2000s
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| Australian Greens Senator Kerry Nettle at head of Eden rally July 2, 2006 |
2013
A flotilla of tall ships made the arduous journey across Bass Strait September 2013 on the way to Jervis Bay for the centenary of the first entry of the Royal Australian Navy's Fleet into Sydney.
Lord Nelson, designed to carry up to 40 people with disabilities, was joined by other tall ships in Eden's Twofold Bay.
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| Tall ships, circumnavigating the world, resting in Eden's Twofold Bay after a harrowing crossing of Bass Strait, from Hobart, 2013 |
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| Tall ships, circumnavigating the world, resting in Eden's Twofold Bay after a harrowing crossing of Bass Strait, from Hobart, 2013 |
Builder Neil Rankin purchased the historic Australasia Hotel in 2019 from council, which had itself bought it in 2016 on the behest of residents wanting to see it saved from developers.
2020Eden was surrounded by fires after December 25 2020 and into the new year. During the fires, people sought shelter on Eden's wharf and many were evacuated from the region.
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| Twofold Bay, NSW, after fire, 2020 |
Around Eden
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| The Davidson Family occupied Loch Garra homestead for three generations, Twofold Bay, NSW |
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| Loch Garra, the Davidson family cottage built in the 1890s. The large iron cauldron was used for storing whale oil. The cauldron would originally have been located at the whaling station |
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| Tower at Boydtown, Twofold Bay, NSW |
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| Green Cape Light Station, Eden, NSW, The Lighthouse was the first cast concrete lighthouse tower in Australia, built from 1881 to 1883 |
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| Eden Historic Cemetery. Location. Aslings Beach Road Eden, NSW |
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| The Seahorse Inn, Boydtown, NSW, began construction in 1843, built with convict labour and was never fully completed. It was abandoned in 1849 and for almost an entire century was left vacant |
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| The Eden Killer Whale Museum was originally built to house the skeleton of the orca "Old Tom" in the 1930s |
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| At the Killer Whale Museum, Eden, NSW |
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| Eden Court House was built in 1858, NSW |
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| The Crown & Anchor Inn was opened in 1845 as a coaching inn, Eden, NSW |
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| The home of J.R. Logan and his family, Edrom Lodge, NSW, until 1942, began construction in 1910, 35km south of Eden overlooking Twofold Bay |
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| Cattle Bay Cannery Wharf. Eden, NSW |
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| Old Post Office built in 1890, Eden, NSW |
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| Woodchip Berth in foreground Multi Purpose Wharf in background, Eden, NSW, n.d, NSW Maritime |
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| Pericoe Stone was found in the bush at Pericoe west of Twofold Bay, NSW. It was used for thousands of years by the local Thaua people to shape, sharpen or grind stone axes and spear heads. At the Killer Whale Museum, Eden |
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| Twofold Bay, Eden, NSW |
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| Mary McKillop Hall, Eden, NSW |
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| The Hotel Australasia , Eden. NSW, built 1904 (impressively restored façade, 2022) |
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| Boyd's Tower, Eden, NSW |
Things To Do and Places To Go
The Eden Killer Whale Museum
Eden Heritage Buildings
The Whale Dreaming Trail – an accessible 600m walk through native gardens in Eden, that leads to an epic lookout over Turemulerrer (Twofold Bay)
SHIPWRECKS OF TWOFOLD BAY & DISASTER BAY
