Arltunga, in the Northern Territory, is located on the 5 000 hectare Arltunga Historical Reserve, 111 km east of Alice Springs.
This lonely spot was once the site of a gold rush after alluvial gold was
discovered in a dry creek in 1887. Today, Arltunga is a ghost town, falling into ruin.
The Arrernte People
The Arrernte people of Central Australia have lived on the land, which the anthropologist Norman Tindale estimated encompassed around 47,000 square miles (120,000 km2), for thousands of years.
There are three distinct mobs of Arrernte people.
Interestingly, the Aboriginal concept of the Dreamtime comes from the telegraph stationmaster in Alice Springs, Francis Gillen,
who was able to speak the Arrernte language. He used “dream times” as a translation for the Arrernte religious beliefs, which were enacted through rituals, dance, songs and paintings.
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| Arrernte welcoming dance, entrance of the strangers, Alice Springs, Central Australia, 9 May 1901 |
During the period in which life was created, Dreamtime Ancestral Spirits moved over the land, creating life and the shape and nature of the land. According to stories of the Western Arrernte people, the MacDonnell Ranges
were created during the Dreamtime by giant caterpillars (Yeperenye).
The kinship system of the Arrernte people is based on social arrangements, which ensure that close relatives do not marry. This system is also regulates how generations are linked and interact, in terms of relationships, that link land, language, family and the Dreamtime.
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| Hut decked with porcupine grass, Eastern Arrernte people, Arltunga district, Northern Territory, National Museum of Australia |
Of great religious significance to the Arrernte people is a Tjurunga (hidden secret), which is an object of wood or stone carved with a totem animal. It is generally given to initiated males and becomes part of rituals.
Women traditionally performed the "unintha" dance with painted bodies, but over time, men became
more dominant and women were less involved. Search online for "unintha" dance, as I am not allowed to post these images.
The East MacDonnell Ranges in the region, where the Arltunga settlement is located, has some important Aboriginal rock art, including: Emily Gap, Jessie Gap, Trephina Gorge and N’Dhala Gorge.
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| Emily Gap / Anthwerrke is a natural attraction and significant cultural site in the East MacDonnell Ranges, eight kilometres to the east of Mparntwe/Alice Springs, NT |
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| Corroboree, near Arltunga, NT, News (Adelaide, SA : 1923 - 1954), Tuesday 23 July 1935 |
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| "The Native Tribes of Central Australia", circa 1899, Ceremony of the kangaroo totem, British Library |
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| "The Native Tribes of Central Australia", circa 1899, Ceremony of the Emu tote, British Library |
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| The Native Tribes of Central Australia", circa 1899, Rain dance, Arunta tribe, British Library |
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| The Native Tribes of Central Australia", circa 1899, ceremony of the frog totem, British Library |
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| The Native Tribes of Central Australia", circa 1899, "she is throwing the charmed stick at the enemy", British Library |
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It was common for Aboriginal women of Central Australia to cut off all their hair when in mourning,
"Across Australia" (1912) |
1860: Exploration
The Scottish explorer, John McDouall Stuart, left Adelaide with an expedition team to survey inland Australia, reaching the MacDonnell Ranges in April of 1860.
The Arltunga settlement would later be established in the hilly country of the East MacDonnell Ranges. Stuart continued, however, reaching the centre in March 1862, surviving the extremely harsh conditions.
1870s
The Overland Telegraph, a 3200 km telegraph line that connected Darwin with Port Augusta in South Australia, was completed in 1872, overseen by South Australia’s Superintendent of Telegraphs, Sir Charles Todd. The Alice Springs Telegraph Station was built as a repeater station in 1871 and became a staging point for
exploring the surrounding area.
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| Image from page 164 of "Across Australia" (1912):BARROW CREEK AND THE KAITISH AND UNMATJERA TRIBES: Barrow Creek was our central station amongst the Kaitish tribe, and we were soon at work amongst the natives, who sent out messengers to bring in as many of the tribe as could be gathered together. The day after our arrival we unpacked our stores of knives, tomahawks, looking-glasses, bead necklets and pipes, and displayed them before a deputation of the natives, with the result that they at once returned to their camps and spread the news amongst the others. In a very short time we were busily engaged, bartering our goods in exchange for native things. A stick of tobacco or a single-bladed knife readily purchased a shield, spear or pitchi. Half a stick was quite enough for a boomerang or a bunch of neck or arm ringlets. Knives and hatchets were most in request, but these were only given in exchange for something really good, or to secure the goodwill of some old man whose sympathy we wanted to enlist. The oldest man amongst them, who was evidently much looked up to by the others and whose native name was TunguUa, we attached to our staff. His remuneration consisted of three meals daily, and a liberal supply of tobacco. Barrow Creek station was opened in 1872. Read here |
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| South Australian Register (Adelaide, SA : 1839 - 1900), Friday 5 September 1879 |
1886-7: Ruby Rush
The "Ruby Rush" in the East MacDonnell Ranges occurred in 1886-7 but the stones turned out to be garnets, rather than the more valuable rubies. However, because of
difficult economic conditions in South Australia, as well as drought, the number of hopeful diggers was surprisingly large. Soon after, the hopes of many were turned toward Arltunga, when alluvial gold was discovered in about April 1887, near Paddys Rockhole. And later in the year, reef gold was found nearby.
The Aboriginal Mounted Police Constable, Erwein Wurmbrand, spent two weeks on the ruby fields and talked about the "gold bearing country". He also spoke of the applications being made for mineral licenses and miners rights from April 1887.
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| L-R Undiah, M.C. Wurnmbrand, Undudna, Ardahkee, Corporal Chickylia, M.C. Willshire and Jack. Billy lies prostrate in front, SLSA |
By December of 1887, there was an estimated 60 people on the Ruby field and twenty men at Paddy's Hole, the area which would later be called the Arltunga Goldfield.
The Arltunga Goldfields were also known as Paddy's Hole, Claraville and MacDonnell Ranges. However, the Eastern Arrernte Aboriginal people called Paddy's Rockhole "Annurra ntinga", which means smelly water, which sounded like "Arltunga" to the miners and the name stuck and was adopted for the whole goldfield.
Getting There
Hopeful gold seekers had to travel 600 kms from Oodnadatta railhead, to get to Arltunga, often travelling on foot and living rough. Even today, travelling to Arltunga
from Alice Springs by car involves a stretch on a gravel road.
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| The boy travellers in Australasia, Originally published in 1889. |
In 1888 the gold mine workings "Wheel of Fortune" (operated from 1888 to 1910), "Albion" and "Great Matrix" were reported as operating. Though water was in short supply, as the waterhole could not provide sufficient water for 20 people, assorted animals and gold panning. Wells were sunk at Paddy's Hole in 1889.
1890s
A regular mail service to Arltunga began operating in January 1891, when a monthly mail service between Alice Springs and Arltunga began. Before this, miners were reliant on a six-weekly mail
service from Oodnadatta to Alice Springs.
A full-time Warden was appointed to Arltunga in 1895. Before this, Alice Springs police had only provide a part-time service. The two police officers appointed at Arltunga lived separately in a tent, which must have been highly uncomfortable in the extreme heat of the day and the cold desert nights in this remote spot.
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| Two Aboriginal and one white members of the police at Arltunga. Circa 1892, SLSA |
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| Police Camp, Arltunga, NT, circa 1903, State Library of SA |
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| Police Camp, Arltunga, NT, Police Camp at Winnecke's Depot. Aboriginal police tracker on left of the group. Circa 1903, SLSA |
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| Two Arltunga, workers outside their tent and stone accommodation. Arltunga, NT, Approximately 1898 |
At least
one general store existed at Paddy's Hole by 1890, despite there being only about 100 miners in the area at this time. Merchandise was carried, mostly by camel-trains, from the rail-head at Oodnadatta, arriving every two or three months.
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| A camel team bringing supplies to Arltunga, 70 miles east north east of Alice Springs, NT. SLSA |
Stamper Battery
Miners at Arltunga petitioned the South Australian Government to provide a stamper battery and cyanide works in 1896. The battery opened in February 1898.
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| Paddy's Hole Store, near Arltunga with election posters on display, about 1896, SLSA |
The White Range settlement became the most important mining area of Arltunga, due to the rich gold reefs discovered there in March 1898.
The finds here provide work for the battery for the next twenty years.
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| The Battery, Arltunga, NT, circa 1898. SLSA |
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| The Battery Works on the left with the Assay and Cyanide House on the right. Arltunga, NT, circa 1899. SLSA |
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| Exterior of J. C. Collison's tent and stone accommodation., Approximately 1898, SLSA |
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| Arltunga cyandie works, NT, Chronicle (Adelaide, SA : 1895 - 1954), Saturday 2 September 1899 |
Miners
Aboriginal people were involved in mining at Arltunga during this stage, particularly women, who were involved in a variety of work, such as picking through ore and shepherding of goats. With the establishment of a police station, rations were also dispensed.
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| Aboriginal women miners, White Range Gold Mine, Arltunga, NT |
Early in 1903, Arltunga reached the height of its population, when 200-300 people lived around the area. However, by the end of that year, the rush had almost petered out, as it became apparent that the reef mines were not as rich as the alluvial mines. Also, outbreaks of typhoid occurred when the only
water source, a well, became contaminated, resulting in the deaths of three people.
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| Government cyanide works at Arltunga, NT, Critic (Adelaide, SA : 1897-1924), Saturday 14 February 1903 |
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| Customers outside the Winnecke Hotel in the Arltunga district, north of Alice Springs, circa 1905. This view was taken by T.A.Bradshaw, Post and Telegraph Master at Alice Springs, 1899-1908. SLSA |
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| Police Camp, Arltunga, NT, Adelaide Observer (SA : 1843 - 1904), Saturday 7 February 1903 |
Federal Control
The Federal Government took over control of the Northern Territory on 1 January 1911, as the South Australian Government was incurring large financial losses administering the area. When the Commonwealth assumed ownership of all its assets, obligations and financial liabilities, it was soon
found that mining at Arltunga was in decline and barely financially viabl
e.
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| Local residents photographed at the Arltunga Race Meeting (on 6 November 1913?). Back row, 1. Aboriginal man, 2. Lou Scharber, 3. Harry Lake, 4. Ben Webb, race starter, 5. Charlie Du Bois, race secretary, 6. Stanish O'Grady, Govt. Assayer, 7. Jim Turner, 8. Ben Wauckington, clerk of scales, 9. Possibly H. Hughes the handicapper, 10. Larry Rosenbaum (or Bill Gallagher), 11. Albert Wallace/Wallis (face turned), 12. Louis Bloomfield, 13. Matt Dowdy. Middle Row: 1. Fred Cavanaugh, 2. Alf Turner, 3. Frank McGowan, 4. Tom Cleary, 5. possibly Jimmy Meggins, 6. Fred Barrett. Front row: 1. Bruce Wallace, 2. young Aboriginal boy drowned at Atnarpa, 3. Jockey Jim, 4. Unknown Aboriginal young man, 5. Baden Bloomfield, 6. Police Tracker Bob, in uniform. See 'Advertiser' article 29 November 1913, page 17, column (d) : 'The Arltunga Meeting' which may relate to this occasion. According to a researcher, Standish O'Grady was the son of Michael Standish O'Grady who migrated from Ireland with his 49 year old mother and three brothers. They lived at Tothills Creek and had four blocks there of 250 acres total, approximately. Standish I think went to the School of Mines Adelaide and may have worked for the Northern Territory Government as well as an Assayer. He had a brother and lots of cousins. His father built the Carrieton Hotel. His mother died in Adelaide. Father Michael Standish is buried at Salisbury old resident's cemetery. According to a researcher, 'Man fifth from left back row is not Standish O'Grady. The man at the end of row is.' Approximately 1913, Arltunga, NT |
Police Station
A Police Station and gaol was built in 1912 to replace the original tent camp. However, many miners were leaving Arltunga and looking for new opportunities. And by the early 1920s, a police officer was left as a caretaker and later, much of the machinery was sold.
1920s
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| Arltunga Police Station, Northern Territory; Mounted Constable G.H.Noblett stands outside, circa 1920, SLSA. |
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| An Aboriginal family, NT Aboriginal traditional hut made of branches and bark. Week (Brisbane, Qld. : 1876 - 1934), Friday 9 September 1921 |
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A glimpse of White Range, said to be a mountain of gold, Arltunga, NT, Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Saturday 15 December 1923
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| One time hotel and then general store, Arltunga, NT, Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Saturday 15 December 1923 |
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| Tunnel opening on Mica "show", Arltunga, NT, Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Saturday 15 December 1923 |
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| His excellency Sir Tom Bridges, Governor of South Australia, planting a tree at Arltunga, Northern Territory, photographed by Herbert Basedow, 1923, National Museum of Australia |
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Post Office at Arltunga, NT, Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Saturday 7 June 1924
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1930s: The Hopeful Return
Interestingly, during the depression, some hopeful and desperate miners returned to Arltunga. The census of 1933 recorded 198 Europeans and 56 occupied buildings at Arltunga. Although some of these people may have been involved in pastoral industries.
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| Rosenbaum's stores, Arltunga. NT, Chronicle (Adelaide, SA : 1895 - 1954), Thursday 24 July 1930 |
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| Corroboree, near Arltunga, NT, Daily News (Perth, WA : 1882 - 1955), Thursday 1 August 1935 |
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| In the Land of the Aruntas, near Arltunga, Central Australia By Frank Hurley Chronicle (Adelaide, SA : 1895 - 1954), Thursday 5 December 1935 |
1940s: On a Mission
In 1942, the Catholic Little Flower Mission, which was established in 1935, for the Eastern Arrernte people, who were living in and around the township of Alice Springs, often in very poor conditions, relocated from Charles Creek to Arltunga, to make way for an army barracks.
In September 1942, the residents of the Little Flower Mission of about 180 people, travelled by army transport to Arltunga. There were complaints of shortages of food and water there.
Although the war situation must be taken into consideration, the lack of food, dislocation from family and isolation, must have been very difficult. In 1957, Little Flower Mission moved to a site 85 km southeast of Alice Springs.
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| Aboriginal children at Arltunga, Northern Territory, ca. 1946, National Library of Australia |
1950s
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Bishop O'Loughlin at Arltunga (1951), chatting with five elderly native men whom he had just confirmed. Southern Cross (Adelaide, SA : 1889 - 1954), Friday 18 July 1952 |
Today, Arltunga is a deserted gold rush town, where the crumbling remains of residential buildings, mining and processing machinery, structures, reef mines, wells, alluvial diggings, claim markers, roads, hearths, chimneys, dynamite stores, and cemeteries, can be found. The Remains of the Catholic Little Flower Mission are located just south of the Reserve boundary.
Around Arltunga
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| Old Arltunga Cemetery, NT |
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| Ruins at Arltunga, NT |
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| Ruins at Arltunga, NT |
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| At Arltunga, NT |
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| Ruins at Arltunga, NT |
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| Rusting mining machines, Arltunga, NT |
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| Ruins at Arltunga, NT |
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| Arltunga, NT, lock-up |
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| At Arltunga NT |
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| At Arltunga NT |
Things To Do and Places To Go
Arltunga Historical Reserve
