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Tamworth, NSW: A Vibrant Regional Centre in The New England region

Tamworth is located in northeast NSW, on the Peel River, on the western side of the Great Dividing Range. 

The name "Tamworth" is a contraction of "Tame Worth", meaning a "fort on the River Tame".

Tamworth has become well known as Australia's "country music capital".  

The Kamilaroi People (Gamilaraay)

Kamilaroi comes from gamil meaning "no" and araay meaning "having". 

The Gamilaraay language was traditionally spoken over a large area of north-central, New South Wales. 

Reverend William Ridley, a Presbyterian minister to the Kamilaroi, from 1852 to 1856, collected vocabulary and other information. He wrote various books, including, "‘On the Kamilaroi language of Australia", in Transactions of the Philological Society (1855).

Ridley’s Kamilaroi vocabulary included words for “star” and “Sun” (1856).  Ridley (1873), also recorded that four stars of the constellation Corona Australis were called Bundar, the kangaroo. 

Other anthropologists to collect information and traditions of the Kamilaroi, include, R.H. Mathews and Norman B. Tindale. Matthews was an Australian surveyor and self-taught anthropologist who employed at least one, the Kamilaroi man Jimmy Nerang, in his survey team.

In the Gamilaraay kinship system, all individuals belong to two groups, these being: Guwaymadhaan (Dark or Heavy Blood) and Guwaygaliyarr (Light Blood). Group inheritance comes from the mother. These two groups are split again into subgroups (known as sub-sections), with four groups in total. Individuals can only marry those in groups diļ¬€erent to themselves, and both their parents.

Intermarriage of individuals of the same totem was forbidden.
In 1925 Herbert Basedow published The Australian Aboriginal. His beleived that Aboriginal people living away from civilisation should be left alone to continue living in their traditional ways and that Europeans should be prevented from having contact with them. Uncontacted peoples
Kinship systems regulate the behaviour of people and determine rights and responsibilities.

Mathews' observed and described an initiation, Bora ceremony, held by Kamilaroi people in 1894. (read here). Matthews regarded the Bora as being integral to the social cohesion of Aboriginal communities and "a great educational institution".

Elders who were medicine men (Wirringan) and wizards (Koradji) instigated the Bora. Teleteglyphs (carved trees) were associated with the initiation ceremonies (Bora). According to the anthropologist, Frederick McCarthy, the Kamilaroi believed "tribal culture heroes came down from and went back to the sky through the trees".

A stone quarry site at Moore Creek, north of Tamworth, was used for making stone axes. Sharpening grooves for axes can be found near the river.

Traditional Aboriginal warfare was not over land, as spiritual connections to a specific territory were paramount. The superiority of one's own group over another group was one reason for warfare. Others were formal battles, ritual trials, raids for women, and revenge attacks.

Hunting and gathering required a lot of knowledge and skill, such as the use of weapons and tracking an animal. Knowledge of the seasons and where to forage and prepare suitable foods was passed down as knowledge to each generation.
 
The Kamilaroi who resisted European settlement were regarded as ferocious warriors. Fighting took place across the Liverpool Plains, with 16 British and up to 500 Indigenous Australians being killed between 1832 and 1838. 

There were positive interactions too. In 1831, near Murrurundi, Sir Thomas Mitchell employed as a guide, an Aboriginal man from the Liverpool plains. This man took the expedition to a station near Quirindi (means fish breeding area). At Quirindi, another Aboriginal man helped guide the expedition a few miles beyond Tamworth.

1818

John Oxley and his exploration party were the first European visitors to Tamworth when they camped on and named the Peel River on the way to Port Macquarie.

1830s

From the 1830s, squatters began to settle along the Peel River. However, they were removed when the Australian Agricultural Company (AAC) received over 300,000 acres on the western side of the Peel River.

Ralph Darling had earlier prohibited settlement beyond settled areas, as there were not enough resources to ensure law-and-order. Those who settled north of the Liverpool Range could not obtain a legal title for the land and could be evicted.

Joseph Brown’s "Wallamoul" and William Dangar’s "Waldoo" (near present-day Tamworth) marked the limits of British settlement (1831).

Henry Dangar explored the Peel Valley for the Australian Agricultural Company in 1831 and in 1834. 

When explorer, Major Thomas Mitchell, explored the Liverpool Plains in 1831, he found bushrangers and drovers settling in the area between the Liverpool Range and Tamworth.

Convicts soon became the companies  (AAC) largest type of employee. Although, those who had served a sentence, Aboriginal and indentured servants on seven-year contracts, were also employed with the latter making up the bulk of initial employees.

The name Tamworth came from Tamworth in England, the home town of Sir Robert Peel (Peel was then Prime Minister of England), after whom the river was named.

In 1834, 6000 sheep were brought to the region by the Australian Agriculture Company.

In November 1835, James White opened a store on the east side of the river in what is now Peel Street. After 18 months, he sold the business to Richard Stubbs and his partner J. J. C. Irving.

Tamworth appeared on the map in 1837.

The first Courthouse was built on the Gipps/Ebsworth Street corner in 1837.

During the early days, goods were transported by horse or bullock teams from the Hunter Valley over the steep road across the Liverpool Ranges. Or from Sydney to Newcastle by the river, to Morpeth in the lower Hunter Valley. Then continuing overland to Tamworth.

1840s

Thomas Byrne, became Tamworth's first Postmaster in 1840.

The first hospital in Tamworth was a small slab hut with a bark roof and earth floor, which opened in the 1840s. This became known as the Ebsworth St hospital. 
 
The 1840s were very hard times for the region, with severe floods, and drought and economic recession.

Reverend S Williams, Vicar of Tamworth in 1848.

Surveyor John Gorman submitted his plan for a Tamworth Reserve on 31 July 1849. Sir Thomas Mitchell, began laying out the design for the town and named its original streets. 

1850s

On January 1, 1850, Tamworth was proclaimed a town (when its population reached 3,000).

The first sale of building blocks in the Government town took place in July 1850.

Population of Tamworth was 254 in 1851.

In August 1851 gold was discovered at Hanging Rock.

John Barnes built the Royal Oak Hotel in 1852.

Tamworth hospital and Benevolent Society was formed in 1854. A new hospital was constructed in Peel Street, with four wards.

The town's first government school was established in 1855, on the later site of Peel Barracks.

In 1857 a suspension bridge was built over the Peel River, the first of its kind in NSW.

The Tamworth Watch House "lock-up" was built in Darling Street in 1859.

The Armstrong flour mill in Marius Street, operated in 1859, for only a short period.

Aboriginal people were being employed as station hands, trackers, shepherds, boundary riders, domestic servants and station workers

The first local newspaper was the Tamworth Examiner, commencing in 1859.

The Manchester Unity Independent Order of Oddfellows, was established on the 9th August, 1859, to promote philanthropy, the ethic of reciprocity and charity.

1860s

An Act in 1861, gave smaller farmers the right to select up to 320 acres of unreserved Crown Land at 1 pound an acre.

Population in 1861 was 543.

A second courthouse in Darling Street was constructed in 1861.

In 1861 the telegraph line was extended to Tamworth.
Peel St, Tamworth, NSW, about 1861, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser 
Brisbane Street, Tamworth, NSW, about 1861, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser 
James Garland was the Police Superintendent based at Tamworth from 1862. The Tamworth district  was full of bushrangers, including Captain Thunderbolt, who robbed mailmen, travellers, inns, stores and stations across much of northern New South Wales.

Captain Thunderbolt was assisted by his wife, Mary Ann Bugg, who was the eldest child of assigned convict James Bugg and his Aboriginal "wife" Charlotte.
Mary Ann Bugg (7 May 1834 – 22 April 1905) was one of two notable female bushrangers in mid-19th century Australia.
"Ardullie" homestead for Donald Munro was built in 1863. Munro's Mill was constructed in the following year. (William Dowel, builder of Munros Mill, Calala Cottage, St Nicholas Church, Conservatorium of Music and many more buildings)
Peel Street, Tamworth, NSW, 1864, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser 
Tamworth Mechanics' Institute opened in 1866.

A new telegraph office built in 1866. 

1870s

A regular twice-weekly mail coach run from Tamworth to Warialda via Manilla, Barraba and Bingara in 1872.

Extension of Great Northern Railway from Murrurundi to Tamworth in 1873.

Philip Gidley King (grandson of Captain Philip Gidley King, the third Governor of New South Wales) was the inaugural mayor of the town of Tamworth from 1876 to 1880.

Railway opened in 1878.
Arrival of the first train in West Tamworth, NSW, 1878

1880s

The Dominican Convent Building was built in 1880.

Lighting of the streets by gas in 1882.

The railway was extended to East Tamworth in 1882.

Tamworth, NSW was the first municipality in Australia to use electricity to light it’s streets in 1888 (15 years before Sydney).
Tamworth Hospital. Dated: No date. NSW State Archives, Tamworth Base Hospital has historic significance at a local level for its establishment in 1881

1890s

The Royal Hotel was established in June 1891. It was burnt down in 1913, and was rebuilt.

Peel Barracks built 1895 as the Tamworth Town Hall.
 "Olga", the residence of Mr S, Joseph of the Tamworth News, to form one daily newspaper, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Saturday 4 December 1897
 An experimental farm at Nemingha, Tamworth, NSW. Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Saturday 4 December 1897
 "BRAESIDE” built in 1882 as a private home for Superintendent James Garland, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Saturday 4 December 1897
Tamworth News Office, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Saturday 4 December 1897
Tamworth Public School, NSW,  Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser, Saturday 4 December 1897 

1900s

February 1900, the Telephone Exchange was opened.
 Sporting carnival at Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 1 July 1903
Mechanics Institute in Tamworth, N.S.W. - very early 1900s, Kaye
 Harcourt & Glover General Store, Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 27 February 1907
 Messrs. Garvin and Cousens, prominent slock, station, and general agents, Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 27 February 1907
 Green's Book Arcade, Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 27 February 1907
 Nathan Cohen and Co. Stock & Station Agents, Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 27 February 1907
 Regan's Palce of Trade, Tamworth, NSW,  Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 27 February 1907
 Caledonia Hotel, Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 27 February 1907
Views in the Tamworth District, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 27 February 1907
North Tamworth Football Team, NSW.Winners of President's Cup in C.N.R.F.U. Senior Competition Last Season. Back Row — S. H. Howey (hon. sec), T. Gray, D, Mullins, J. Doherfcy, J. White, B. Doherty. Second Row— P. Young, F. Lampardf W.- Jones (captain), 0r ScoU, P. Folliugton, E. Searle. Front Row — W. Munnix, P. McDonald, J. Shaw, A. Appleby. ,..?' ^ ... ? Back Row — S. H. Howey (hon. sec), T. Gray, D, Mullins, J. Doherfcy, J. White, B. Doherty. Second Row—P. Young, F. Lampardf W.- Jones (captain), 0r ScoU, P. Folliugton, E. Searle. Front Row — W. Munnix,P. McDonald, J. Shaw, A. Appleby. ,..?' Peak Hill Express (NSW : 1902 - 1952), Friday 26 August 1904,
 Tamworth Choir, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 13 October 1909
 Leigh's central Hotel, Peel St, Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), Wednesday 13 October 1909
Peel Street, Tamworth, N.S.W. - early 1900s, Kaye
Marius Street, Tamworth, N.S.W. - early 1900s, Kaye
Tamworth from Calala Hill, N.S.W. - very early 1900s, Kaye
TAMWORTH, NSW, corner Peel & Brisbane Streets, Flood, 1910. Kaye
Milling and brewing were important industries.

WW I

TAMWORTH BOYS ENCAMPED AT ARMIDALE. Back Row.—Ray. Pryor, Percy Godbold. D. Markham, Lloyd Dowe, Harry Page, Chas. Bowden, Chas. Rasmussen. Second row: Alf. Miller, Les. Pryor, A. Gillies, Eric Vial, D Robertson, W. White, Les. Parsons, ----(unknown)-. Third row: Alf. Cooper, Milton Parkins, Fred Mullane, R. Ogle, Bert Bradbury, F. Homewood, Clyde Irwin, R. V. Patterson, Roy Flanders. Front Row: H. Pryor, C. Sams, Norman Lambert, Claude Richardson, F. Sims, Crawford, J. Brown. Tamworth Daily Observer (NSW : 1910 - 1916), Saturday 18 September 1915
STREET PARADE IN PEEL STREET, TAMWORTH, N.S.W. - WW1 era, Kaye
PATRIOTIC CARNIVAL AT TAMWORTH, NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 19 April 1916
Panoramic view of Peel Street, Tamworth, New South Wales, 2 / EB Studios, 1917, National Library of Australia
 CORPL. EDGAR RICHARDS D.C.M, aged 29 years. killed in action in France on March 27 Corpl Richards was very well known and popular in Tamworth, and prior to his enlistment was employed with P. G. Smith and Co. Ltd. ' For rescuing wounded under fire the late Corpl Richards had
been awarded the 'D C M.Daily Observer (Tamworth, NSW : 1917 - 1920), Saturday 28 April 1917
Nursing staff of Tamworth District Hospital, NSW, Daily Observer (Tamworth, NSW : 1917 - 1920), Friday 11 October 1918,
 John Oxley Centenary, Tamworth, NSW, A hundred years ago on 2nd September, 1818, John Oxley, Surveyor-General of New South Wales, leading a party of exploration from Bathurst, discovered and crossed the Peel River, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 11 September 1918
C Regan LTD., The Palace of Trade, Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 11 September 1918,
 P G Smith & Co. LTD, Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 11 September 1918
Tamworth Gaol, NSW, no date, NSW State Archives

1920s

The Tamworth Council Chambers and Library, NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 14 February 1923
Messrs. Victor C. Thompson and R. F. Green, both Tamworth residents, who had notable successes in the recent political contest, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 14 February 1923
 Tamworth Municipal Electric Power Station, NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 14 February 1923
The Weir at Paradise, Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 29 February 1928 (Tamworth Swimming Club celebrated the opening of the new concrete Paradise Weir with a big carnival on February 21, 1925
There were Chinese growers of tobacco at Tamworth.
A Chinese share farmer of Tobacco, at Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 1 September 1926
The biggest load of wheat drawn to Tamworth this season. There were 205 bags in all Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 16 March 1927
 Post Office, Tamworth, NSW, Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 29 February 1928
North West visit - Brisbane Street Tamworth (From the photograph album of L.G. Watt - NSW Board of Fire Commissioners) Dated: 30/09/1929, NSW State Archives

1930s

Tamworth was connected to electricity in 1931.
Several spectacular and highly-amusing turns were given by Mr. Les Stanton, of Goonoo Goonoo-road, Tamworth, who hitched a particularly lively bullock to an improvised chariot and galloped wildly round the ring. Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), Wednesday 12 October 1932
At the Bushmen's Carnival at Tamworth, the Royal visitor was given an insight into station life. The picture above shows a woman rider rounding up a steer. Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), Monday 3 December 1934
Olympic Pool, Tamworth, NSW, 1935, Donna Newton
2TM Tamworth's first radio station began broadcasting in 1935.
Peel Street, Tamworth, NSW, 1935, Donna Newton
Brisbane Street, Tamworth, N.S.W. - 1930s/1940s, Central Hotel on the left corner. Kaye
Zachariah “Jack” Kouvelis built the Tamworth Capitol Theatre in 1927.
   Tamworth Capitol Theatre, NSW, 1930, Tamworth Regional Council finished what started on that shameful night. It ordered that the theatre be bulldozed on the same morning it was declared a heritage building (1.).
On 22 September 1939, Peel Barracks (former town hall) became a recruiting depot for the Army.

1940s and WWII

Railway Hotel in Tamworth, N.S,W, - circa 1940, Kaye
Daily Examiner (Grafton, NSW : 1915 - 1954), Saturday 6 July 1940
In Match Against Tamworth. E. Widders, an Aboriginal man, was selected as full-back for New England Rugby League. representative team, to play Tamworth at Armidale, NSW, Armidale Express and New England General Advertiser Friday 23 May 1941
Pte. D. V. C. Cook, of Tamworth, missing. Sun (Sydney, NSW : 1910 - 1954), Sunday 27 July 1941
The 2TM (Tamworth) Women’s Radio Club met throughout the 1940s, regarding child welfare.

During World War II, Tamworth was the location of RAAF No.20 Inland Aircraft Fuel Depot (IAFD), completed in 1942, and closed on 14 June 1944.
 Youngest RAAF man to command aBomber Squadron is WING-COMMANDER JOHN KEITH DOUGLAS, DFC, of Tamworth, NSW (above). Aged 22, Border Morning Mail (Albury, NSW : 1938 - 1949), Friday 21 July 1944,
 NATIVE stretcher case given a cigarette by Corporal D. Wright, of Tamworth (N.S.W.), in New Guinea. — Department of Information picture. Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW : 1931 - 1954), Monday 27 March 1944. The New Guinea campaign of the Pacific War lasted from January 1942 until the end of the war in August 1945.
Tamworth was proclaimed a city in 1946.

East-West Airlines was founded in Tamworth in 1947.

The Institution for Boys, later renamed Endeavour House, was establsihed in 1947. It was a place of punishment for boys aged 15 to 18, who absconded from other boys' homes. Some of Australia's most infamous criminals were sent to this cruel institution, including, Arthur Stanley "Neddy" Smith, George Freeman, Kevin Crump, James Finch, Archibald McCafferty and Billy Munday. 
Tamworth Railway Refreshment Room, NSW - interior showing counter and dining tables. Dated: 17 March 1949, NSW State Archives
Florence Bowden was born in 1893, in Terry Hie Hie, New South Wales, Australia. She had at least 1 son and 1 daughter with Jack Munro. She died in 1987, at the age of 94, and was buried in Tamworth, New South Wales, Australia. Florence “Granny” Munro moved to Tamworth in the 1940s, and formed a branch of the Australian Inland Mission Women's Fellowship. Granny Munroe was the Tamworth Citizen of the Year. Granny Munro Park is in West Tamworth
NRMA Motoring and Services 1950s, Tamworth, NSW, 1950s, NRMA Motoring and Services

1950s

Land (Sydney, NSW : 1911 - 1954), Friday 20 June 1952 (The word "spastic" has been largely erased from popular English usage)
Peel Street, Tamworth, NSW, Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW : 1931 - 1954), Monday 13 September 1954

1960s

ANZ Bank Tamworth, NSW, in 1960s, Attribution: PCovell

1970s

The first Australasian Country Music Festival was hosted in Tamworth by radio station 2TM in 1973.

1988

The Golden Guitar was erected on Sydney Road in 1988, and unveiled by Slim Dusty.

1990s

Tamworth Regional Entertainment Centre opened in 1999.

2000s

Tamworth accepts asylum seekers and refugees. The majority of these refugees would be Sudanese.

2020

Tamworth became the New Zealand Warriors Temporary Training and Isolation facility during the COVID-19 Pandemic.

2021

Federal Member of parliament, Bob Katter, was refused entry into a licensed venue in Tamworth, for failing to provide his double COVID-19 vaccination status.

In 2022, one of eastern Australia's largest hemp crops, for textile and building use, was harvested 10 kilometres from the middle of Tamworth.


Around Tamworth


Post Office, Tamworth, NSW, built 1886
Tamworth Train Station and Boer War Memorial, Tamworth NSW. opened 1882
Family Hotel, Tamworth, NSW.Corner of Bridge & Belmont Streets, Tamworth. The original hotel was established in 1878. Jan Smith
Bank building, erected in 1892, as the Bank of NSW, Tamworth, NSW
Central Hotel, Tamworth, NSW, built in the late 1930s
The  Courthouse Hotel, Tamworth, NSW, established in 1876
The Golden Guitar was erected in front of the Longyard Hotel on Sydney Road in 1988, Tamworth, NSW
The Dominican Convent Building was built in 1880 – 82, Tamworth, NSW (amworth Regional Conservatorium of Music)
 The Shepherd's Hut was built in the 1840s. The property owned by the A.A. Company was divided into 34 runs and a shepherd's hut, Tamworth Historical Society: Calala Cottage Museum 
Designed and built by Philip Gidley King in 1875, Tamworth Historical Society: Calala Cottage Museum
Tamworth Town Hall, NSW, opened in 1934
St Nicholas Catholic Church Tamworth, NSW, built 1877
Calrossy Anglican School (Calrossy), was established in 1919, Tamworth, NSW
Zachariah "Jack" Kouvelis built the Regent Theatre in 1938, Tamworth, NSW


Things To Do and Places To Go


Tamworth Heritage Walk

Tamworth Hospital Nursing and Medical Museum

Calala Cottage Museum

Australian Country Music Hall of Fame

The Powerhouse Motorcycle Museum

Kanyaka, SA: Isolated and Remote Ruins

Kanyaka is located in the Far North region of South Australia, about 320km north of Adelaide.

The Hundred of Kanyaka was gazetted on 6 July 1876. Today, Kanyaka lies in ruins.

The Barngarla and Adnyamathanha People

Occupation of the Warratyi rock shelter dates back approximately 49,000 years.

Today, Aboriginal Australian people of the northern Flinders Ranges consist of clans of several distinct peoples: Adnyamathanha. Also known as the Wailpi, and including the Guyani, Jadliaura, Pilatapa and sometimes the Barngarla peoples.

Barngarla is a member of South Australia’s Thura-Yura group of languages, spoken traditionally on the Eyre Peninsula and north into the Gawler Rangers, as far as the southern end of Lake Torrens.

People of the northern Flinders Ranges share a common identity, which relates to ancestral spirits and origin stories; language and culture, which is known as Yura Muda.
Aboriginal men: warriors and hunters
The important creator being, the rainbow serpent, is known as akurra. The Dreaming was the time when Ancestral Beings travelled across the landscape creating life and geographic features of the land.
During the Dreaming, the rules for life, social organisation and the spiritual world view also came into being.

Bila, the sun, is a female celestial being, believed to be a cannibal, roasting her victims over a fire. The fire of the sun also provides light for the world. The story passed orally, goes that one day, the lizard man Kudnu, and Muda, the Gecko Man, decided to stop Bila from eating people. So, Kudnu threw a boomerang at Bila and injured her. Bila then turned into a ball of fire and left the world, leaving it in darkness. After this, Adnyamathanha people no longer ate lizards or geckos.

The anthropologist, Charles Percy Mountford, collected a lot of information about the sky beliefs and ancestral beings of the Adnyamathanha people. Mountford recorded in 1939 that the Adnyamathanha people believed that spirit children (muri ) originated from the breasts of two mythic women or Mothers, the Maudlangami.

The Pleiades star cluster is also seen as a group of women (Artunyi), to the Adnyamathanha people.

The name Adnyamathanha means "rock people" or "hill people".

Adnyamathanha clans were divided into two parts: moieties called Mathari and Ararru. For Adnyamathanha people, the moiety was passed down from mother to child. The Matheri Moiety (the south wind) and Arraru Moiety (the north wind), would determine your relationships, rights and responsibilities, and who you could marry. 

Death Rock is a large seven-metre high quartzite rock beside a permanent spring-fed waterhole. It is said that local Aboriginal people were brought here when near death and laid down under the rock.

1802

Matthew Flinders sighted the Flinders Rangers aboard HMS Investigator during his mapping of the Australian coastline in 1802. 
Investigator (ship), A painting by John Allcot. SLQLD

1830s

Edward John Eyre made two expeditions into the interior of South Australia in 1839.

1850s

In 1851, Wilpena, Arkaba and Aroona were established as sheep stations.

In 1853, driving 7,000 sheep, William Pinkerton is believed to be the first European to find a route through the Flinders Ranges, via Pichi Richi Pass.

In 1852 Kanyaka Station was established as a cattle station by Hugh Proby, who possessed both money and connections, approximately 40 km (25 mi) north-north-east of Quorn.

Hugh Proby was the son of Admiral Granville Leveson Proby (the third Earl of Carysfort of Ireland) and Isabella Howard. He arrived in South Australia on the Wellington in May 1851.

From 1st July 1851, Hugh Proby took up three pastoral leases in the northern Flinders Ranges, for a term of 14 years, with the rent set at 10 shillings per square mile. Lease number 74 became the Mookra Run. Leases 117 and 118, totalling 101 square miles, were the start of Kanyaka Station. By 1852 he had 1000 head of cattle, and some huts had been built.
Typical bark hut, Mail (Adelaide, SA : 1912 - 1954)
Hugh Proby, whose ancestral home was Elton Hall in Derbyshire in England, wrote letters to his family during 1851-52 and described his experiences establishing Kanyaka. (An Earl's Son: the letters of Hugh Proby / Louise Neal, 1987).

The Kanyaka area receives low rainfall, so it is tragic that in August 1852, a thunderstorm caused a herd of cattle to break into a stampede. It was the middle of the night when Hugh and an Aboriginal stockman set out to rescue the cattle. Whilst attempting to cross the swollen Willochra Creek, Hugh was swept off his horse and drowned.

The grave of Hugh Proby is located near where he drowned. His family shipped out a tablet of Scottish granite from Britain, six years later, and it was hauled out to Kanyaka by a bullock team, from Port Augusta. The grave is located near the side of the Arden Vale road between Quorn and the ruins of Simmonstown. Some years later, his sister, Lady Hamilton, came to Australia to visit his grave.

After Hugh Proby's death, Kanyaka Run was taken up by Alexander Grant and then, John Randall Phillips.

James Grant set out for Kanyaka Station. However, while on his way, he and a friend who rode with him, became lost. Their remains were found a year later.  

John Randall Phillips changed Kanyaka Station from cattle to sheep. Then Phillips set about building a homestead and establishing a small village, with an overseer and workmens' cottages, blacksmith workshop, cart and harness sheds, stockyards and animal enclosures. 

It was said that Phillips spent about £10,000 on the property, including the enormous woolshed and a 16 roomed homestead. The buildings were mostly of local stone, due to limited supplies of suitable local timber.
 John Randall Phillips, Chronicle (Adelaide, SA : 1895 - 1954), Thursday 26 April 1934
In 1856, Phillips built an eating house on the main road, about 5km away, to divert visitors away from the Kanyaka Station.

Kanyaka, which was isolated and remote, became a fairly self-sufficient small village. However, there was little in the way of medical care.

In 1857 George Goyder wrote that Kanyaka was "assuming the appearance of a village".

1860s

The region was so badly affected by the droughts of the mid-1860s that Kanyaka was abandoned for a year.

The station office at Kanyaka was also the post office. In 1862, more than 23,300 letters were received at Kanyaka and nearly 21,600 were sent.
Kanyaka Station, SA. .John Randall Phillips, 1832-1917, arrived in South Australia in March 1846 on board the ship the "Alpha" (from Western Australia). Pastoralist, Kanyaka station. About 1862, SLSA
The eating house, Blackjack, was run by David Bowman during 1864 and early 1865. By 1864 the eating house had become a two storey hotel, the Great Northern, with twenty four rooms, stables and a coaching house.
1864 about 41,000 sheep were shorn at- Kanyaka and 11,000, sold.
South Australian Register (Adelaide, SA : 1839 - 1900), Tuesday 29 March 1864
Adelaide Observer (SA : 1843 - 1904), Saturday 8 April 1865
Adelaide Express (SA : 1863 - 1866), Friday 16 June 1865
Kanyaka was a distribution centre for food, blankets and rations for Aboriginal people in the area.
 
In 1866, after several years of severe drought, the surviving stock was removed, and Kanyaka abandoned. 

John Phillips, when giving evidence of losses to the Northern Runs Commission in 1867, estimated that between 1864 and 1866, 20,000 sheep on the run had died of starvation. 

1870s

Richard Gloyne died in 1871 and was buried 5km from Kanyaka. Gloyne came to South Australia from England, leaving a wife and two children to work as a labourer in the district. Local stories say that he fell from the balcony of the hotel. An inquest later revealed that he took his own life. His lonely grave is difficult to access without a four-wheel drive.

"The sad and tragical
death of Mr. Holyoake, which took place at
Kanyaka. It appears Mr. Holyoake, a hawker,
in the employ of Mr. Marshall of this place.
was engaged at his business with a man named
Hope, and through some disagreement a fight
ensued which terminated fatally."
South Australian Advertiser (Adelaide, SA : 1858 - 1889), Monday 6 January 1873

"The Kanyaka Creek had risen to
such a height that the coach had to be left
there all night, and the guard, putting the mails
on a horse, swam the creek. The driver and
passengers also got over on horseback and -pro-
cured a vehicle on the other side. The Bul
cunda Creek was also forded with difficulty.
The roads were very heavy all along the route,
and it was with great difficulty that the mail reached
the Burra at 7 o'clock on Thursday morning."
South Australian Chronicle and Weekly Mail (Adelaide, SA : 1868 - 1881), Saturday 1 February 1873
Express and Telegraph (Adelaide, SA : 1867 - 1922), Wednesday 3 November 1875

In July 1876, the Hundred of Kanyaka was proclaimed, with the pastoral station and lands subject to resumption.

The land was sub-divided and cleared for agriculture with heartbreaking and disastrous consequences for the land and the families, who faced drought and ruin despite their toil and sacrifice. Wheat farms were not viable this far beyond Goyder’s line.
Port Augusta Dispatch (SA : 1877 - 1880), Saturday 22 December 1877,

1880s

The hotel closed in 1881, as a new railway station 10km away at Wilson caused carriers to stop there, not at Kanyaka.

John Phillips left the leasehold in 1881, and the buildings were left to crumble. 

In 1883, James Bole, was lost in the hills and died. "His cricket bat lay by his side; he had carried it faithfully through those awful hours of wandering and privation. He was buried in the cemetery on the old Kanyaka station...." (1.)

There was a substantial earthquake in January 1888.

1920s

ENGLISH EARL'S LONELY GRAVE. — Surrounded by. a stockyard fence this is the last resting place of Hugh Proby, third son of the. Earl of Carysfort, who was drowned in the Willochra Creekin 1852. Mail, Kanyaka, SA (Adelaide, SA : 1912 - 1954), Saturday 17 July 1926

A disastrous drought of 1928-29.
Aboriginal children from the Flinders Rangers, SA, News (Adelaide, SA : 1923 - 1954), Friday 5 July 1929

1930s

Chronicle (Adelaide, SA : 1895 - 1954), Thursday 16 June 1938

1940s

All the "legends of the Flinders Ranges" were told to me by black men and women of the northern part of Flinders Ranges, near Lake Frome. News (Adelaide, SA : 1923 - 1954), Friday 26 September 1941
Aboriginal child of the Flinders Ranges, News (Adelaide, SA : 1923 - 1954), Friday 26 September 1941

1950s

The first Technicolor film filmed on location in Australia. Cattle stampede scenes in the film "Kangaroo". Here Aboriginal stockman Clyde Combo, who also appeared in "Bitter Springs,". and Frank Ransom, try to check a cattle rush on the dusty plains below the Flinders Ranges. News (Adelaide, SA : 1923 - 1954), Wednesday 25 June 1952

2000s

War of the Worlds movie screening took place among the Kanyaka ruins in 2017.
War of the Worlds movie screening took place among the Kanyaka ruins in 2017, SA

2021

A young woman, believed to have been kidnapped, was tragically found in a shallow grave some days later. The woman's ID, and the shoes she was seen wearing before her disappearance, were found in a bin at the Kanyaka Ruins. 

The ruins of Kanyaka are a reminder of the optimism, hardships and isolation, that people endured in many remote areas


Around Kanyaka

The Kanyaka Station ruins consist of two main historical sites: The homestead and the woodshed.
Kanyaka Homestead Ruins, SA
Kanyaka Homestead Ruins, SA
Kanyaka Homestead Ruins, SA, shearer's quarters
Kanyaka shearing shed, SA. Drive up and over the hill to the ruins of the woolshed
Kanyaka ruins, SA.
Grave of Hugh Proby, founder of Kanyaka Station, SA
Kanyaka ruins, SA
Kanyaka Water Hole & Death Rock, SA
Kanyaka ruins, SA
Richard Gloyne's grave at the old hotel at Kanyaka. SA
Kanyaka Homestead Cemetery, SA
Kanyaka shearing shed, SA,


Things To Do and Places To Go


Adnyamathanha Language Lessons